Accra, Ghana
Where independence was declared, and the coast is still arguing about jollof
Accra is the capital of Ghana and its largest urban area, a seaside city of forts, markets and fast-growing suburbs on the Gulf of Guinea. The Greater Accra Region counted more than five million people at the 2021 census.
The Ga people founded the coastal towns that became Accra, and from the seventeenth century European traders built forts beside them: the Dutch at Ussher Fort, the English at James Fort, and the Danes at Christiansborg Castle in Osu, which later served as the seat of government for centuries. The masthead year is 1877, when the British moved the capital of the Gold Coast colony here from Cape Coast. In February 1948 police fired on ex-servicemen marching on Christiansborg, and the riots that followed sped the end of colonial rule. On 6 March 1957 Kwame Nkrumah declared the independence of Ghana at the Old Polo Ground in Accra, the first in sub-Saharan Africa to break free of colonial rule, and the city became a capital of pan-Africanism. Coups, economic crises and, since 1992, a durable democracy followed.
Old Accra is Ga Mashie, the fishing districts of Jamestown and Usshertown by the sea, with the lighthouse and the forts. Inland lie the central business district and Makola market, Adabraka and the ministries, and Independence Avenue running towards Black Star Square and the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park. Osu, with Oxford Street, is the busiest strip for shops and eating out; the Airport Residential Area, Cantonments, Labone and East Legon are the comfortable residential districts. The city has spread north to Legon, Madina and Adenta and along the coast in both directions, merging east with Tema, the industrial city built around the country's main port in the 1960s.
Accra eats banku and kenkey, fermented maize dumplings, with grilled tilapia and pepper; waakye, rice and beans, for breakfast; red-red, beans in palm oil with fried plantain; kelewele, spiced fried plantain, at night; fufu with light soup or groundnut soup; and jollof rice, about which Ghanaians and Nigerians argue endlessly. The Ga festival of Homowo, 'hooting at hunger', is celebrated in the summer. Highlife was born on this coast, and Accra has since given the world hiplife, azonto and a large share of Afrobeats. Twi is spoken almost everywhere, Ga is the city's own language, and English is the official one.
Present-day Accra is one of West Africa's most visited capitals, helped by the Year of Return in 2019 that drew many people of the African diaspora to Ghana. It is also coping with the consequences of rapid growth: flooding in the rainy season, traffic, the pollution of the Odaw lagoon and Korle lagoon, and the electronics dump at Agbogbloshie, cleared in 2021. Ghana went through a debt default and an IMF programme after 2022, and John Mahama returned to the presidency in January 2025 after winning the 2024 election. The city's creative scene, its galleries, fashion designers and music, is booming regardless.
Where People Live
Jamestown & Usshertown
Ga Mashie, the historic fishing quarter, with James Fort, Ussher Fort, the lighthouse, boxing gyms and the street art of the annual Chale Wote festival.
Osu
Lively district around Oxford Street, with shops, restaurants, bars and Christiansborg Castle, also called Osu Castle, on the shore.
Central Accra & Makola
The business district and Makola market, the largest and most chaotic of the city's markets, beside government buildings and the old commercial streets.
Airport Residential & Cantonments
Upmarket districts of embassies, offices, hotels, restaurants and large homes, near Kotoka International Airport.
East Legon
Fast-growing affluent district of new homes, malls and restaurants, close to the University of Ghana.
Labadi
Coastal Ga town with a popular beach, hotels and beach bars, busy at weekends.
Adabraka
Central district of older buildings, small hotels, workshops and shops, close to the Kwame Nkrumah Circle interchange.
Must-see attractions
Where to stay
Edward Barfi Memorial Guest Quarters Accra
8CH8+CC3, Akyem Kwabeng, Ghana · ebguestquarters.square.site
Rico Hotel Accra
G6R9+X7, Nkawkaw, Ghana
Mensco Hotel Accra
9FF4+HVF, Anyinam, Ghana
K-ARCHY ECO Lodge Accra
8 kasadjan road, Kyebi, Ghana
Rojo Hotel Accra
H63V+V5H, Nkawkaw, Ghana
Bertrams hotel Accra
bertrams hotel, Nkawkaw, Ghana
Kwadisco Hotel and Pub Accra
G6MW+PJF, Nkawkaw, Ghana
Hotel De Ship Accra
H62P+7HV Near Kwahuman International School, Nkawkaw, Ghana
Topway Hotel Accra
H63P+8VF, Attibie Road, East Region, Nkawkaw, Ghana
Pri-nadam guest house Accra
8GX8+X9, Osino, Ghana
Oburoni Ba Guest House Accra
G6QM+R64, Agyakwa High Street, Hospital Junction, Nkawkaw, Ghana
Restaurants & places to go
Jofel
Restaurant · restaurant
Napoli Chop bar
Restaurant · restaurant
Airports
Ajena Airstrip 76 km to the centre
Ajena, EP, GH
Kpong Airfield 79 km to the centre
Kpong, EP, GH
Living Here
Getting about
- Trotros, the shared minibuses, are how most of the city moves, gathering at stations such as Circle and Tema Station. Shared and private taxis and ride-hailing apps are common, and motorbike and tricycle taxis work the outer districts.
- Kotoka International Airport sits inside the city, north of the centre.
- There is no metro. Coaches and buses run from city stations to Kumasi, Cape Coast, Takoradi and Lomé.
- Traffic is heavy at peak hours, and flash floods follow heavy rain. Pavements are uneven and open drains common, so watch your step.
Health
- Korle Bu Teaching Hospital is the country's largest hospital; the 37 Military Hospital and a number of private hospitals and clinics also serve the city. Travel and medical insurance is essential.
- Malaria is present year-round, and a yellow fever vaccination certificate is required on entry. Drink bottled or sachet water.
- The sea along the city's beaches has strong currents and undertow; swim only where it is known to be safe.
Work & study
- Government, banking, telecoms, cocoa and gold marketing, oil and gas offices, the port at Tema and a growing technology and creative sector provide formal work; trade employs most people. Foreign workers need a permit.
- The University of Ghana at Legon, founded in 1948, is the country's oldest university; Accra also has many other public and private institutions.
- English is the language of business, education and government; Twi and Ga are the languages of daily life.
Money & manners
- The Ghanaian cedi. Mobile money, known as MoMo, is used for almost everything from taxis to market stalls; cards work at hotels, malls and larger restaurants, and cash machines are common. Carry cash for trotros and small purchases.
- Greetings come first: say good morning or good afternoon before any question, and shake hands with everyone. Use the right hand for giving, eating and receiving.
- Homosexual acts are criminalised in Ghana, and attitudes are conservative. Dress is relaxed but neat, and smart for official business.
News
Situations Vacant
Classified
Property
Sport
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Sources
- Geoverts Local — Accrathe local directory, the people-and-company index, and who is hiring
- Better Mapping — Accrathe intelligence map — parcels, boundaries and what is actually where