Bergama is a district town of İzmir Province in the Bakırçay valley, built at the foot of ancient Pergamon, capital of the Attalid kings and a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2014. The district had about 106,000 people in 2022, the largest outside the İzmir metropolitan core.
Pergamon rose on its steep hill above the valley in the third century BC, when Philetairos, keeper of a royal treasure, made it the base of his own dynasty. His successors, the Attalids, ruled a kingdom across western Asia Minor until 133 BC, when the last of them bequeathed it to Rome, and they built a capital to rival Athens: terraced palaces, a theatre cut into the slope, temples and the great altar of Zeus with its frieze of gods fighting giants. The library was said to be second only to Alexandria’s, and the name parchment, pergamena, recalls the city. Under Rome Pergamon remained a great city; the physician Galen was born here and trained at the Asclepion, the healing sanctuary, and it is named among the seven churches of the Book of Revelation. The Byzantines, the Turkish emirate of Karesi and the Ottomans followed, and the modern town of Bergama grew in the lower city by the river.
The town lies in the plain of the Bakırçay, the ancient Kaikos, about 27 kilometres inland from the coast at Dikili and a hundred-odd kilometres north of İzmir. The acropolis rises sharply on its north side, reached by road or by a gondola from the edge of the town, with the theatre, the Trajaneum and the foundations of the altar on its terraces. The old quarter of stone houses and narrow lanes lies at its foot, around the Selinus stream and the vast brick ruin of the Red Basilica, the Kızıl Avlu, a Roman temple of the Egyptian gods later turned into a church. The Asclepion is on the other side of the town to the south-west, and the archaeological museum on the main street. The district beyond is farmland, cotton and olives on the plain and pine forest on the Kozak plateau to the north, where the stone pines give the nuts the area is known for.
Bergama is a market town that happens to sit at the foot of one of the great sites of the ancient world, and its life goes on largely apart from the coach parties. The weekly market fills the streets with the produce of the valley, and the villages around still weave Bergama carpets, a tradition of red-ground wool rugs with geometric patterns. The food is the Aegean’s, with olive oil dishes and herbs, köfte, and pine nuts from Kozak in sweets and rice. In June the Bergama Kermesi, the town’s long-standing festival, fills the town with concerts, folk dancing and a parade. The town also has a tradition of protest: in the 1990s villagers around the Ovacık gold mine became a national cause in their campaign against the use of cyanide, and the mine has remained a point of argument since.
Bergama lives from farming, trade, the services of a large district town and tourism, which has grown since UNESCO listing but is mostly day visits from İzmir and the coast. The great altar itself has been in Berlin since the 1880s, and its return remains an occasional Turkish demand; the Pergamonmuseum there has been closed for renovation, and is due to reopen with the altar hall in June 2027. Excavation on the acropolis, led by the German Archaeological Institute for well over a century, continues. Like all of İzmir Province, Bergama lies in earthquake country, and the quality of new building is a constant concern.
The upper city of the Attalid kings, with the steep theatre, the Trajaneum, the foundations of the altar of Zeus, the library and the arsenals, reached by the gondola or by the road.
The lanes of stone and timber houses at the foot of the acropolis along the Selinus stream, with old mosques, small workshops and guesthouses.
The towering brick temple of the Egyptian gods, the Kızıl Avlu, built over the stream in the Roman era and later used as a church, with a small mosque beside it.
The healing sanctuary south-west of the town, with its colonnaded sacred way, theatre, sacred spring and the tunnel to the treatment building.
The main street with the archaeological museum, the market, the bus station, government offices and shops, the working heart of the district.
The high pine-forested plateau to the north, with its villages, stone pines and pine-nut harvest, cooler than the plain in summer.
The farmland of the valley around the town, with cotton, grain and olive groves, the carpet-weaving villages and the road west to Dikili and the sea.
Ulucamii, İttihatti Terakki Meydani No:76, 35700 Bergama/İzmir, Türkiye · elaiahotel.com.tr
Talatpaşa, Tabak Köprü Cd. No:38, 35700 Bergama/İzmir, Türkiye · hotelhera.com
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mahallesi, Kalayci sokak, Kale no:10, 35070 Bergama/İzmir, Türkiye
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Fatih, Atatürk Blv. No:111, 35700 Bergama/İzmir, Türkiye
Ulucamii, Soğan Dere Sk. No:52, 35700 Bergama/İzmir, Türkiye
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Bergama, 35, TR
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