Dubrovnik, Croatia
A republic of merchants that became a walled stage set, and knows it
Dubrovnik is the old Republic of Ragusa, a walled maritime city-state at the southern tip of Croatia that kept its independence for four and a half centuries by paying whoever needed paying. It is one of the most beautiful small cities in Europe and one of the most overrun.
Ragusa was founded, by tradition, in the seventh century by refugees from Roman Epidaurum, on a rocky island that was later joined to the Slav settlement of Dubrovnik on the mainland; the channel between them became the Stradun. Byzantium, then Venice from 1205, held it until the Treaty of Zadar in 1358 transferred it to the Hungarian crown, under which it was effectively self-governing — the founding date this edition takes. The Republic of Ragusa that followed traded from the Black Sea to Spain, paid tribute to the Ottomans, abolished the slave trade in 1416, and built the walls, the aqueduct and the quarantine station that survive. The earthquake of 1667 killed thousands and flattened much of the city; the baroque rebuilding is what stands. Napoleon dissolved the republic in 1808, Austria took it in 1815, Yugoslavia in 1918. The Yugoslav army shelled the old town through the winter of 1991–92; the roof tiles are new because of it.
The Old Town is tiny — a walk along the top of the walls takes under two hours and covers all of it — and organised on the Stradun, the limestone street that runs from the Pile gate to the old harbour, with the Rector's Palace, the cathedral and the Sponza at the harbour end and the Franciscan monastery and Onofrio's fountain at the other; the steep stepped lanes climb to the walls on either side. Outside the walls the city is a string of neighbourhoods along the coast: Ploče, east, with the grand hotels and the Banje beach; Pile and the Lovrijenac fort to the west; Lapad, the peninsula of family hotels, pines and the Sunset beach, and Babin Kuk beyond it, where most visitors actually sleep; and Gruž, the working port and ferry harbour with the market and the bus station. The Mount Srđ cable car looks down on all of it, and Lokrum island sits ten minutes offshore.
Dubrovnik's culture is the Summer Festival, which since 1950 has staged drama and music in the courtyards and forts from July to August — Hamlet on Lovrijenac is the fixture — and the feast of St Blaise, the city's patron, on 3 February, when the relics are carried through streets that for once belong to the residents. The Game of Thrones tours have replaced the Ragusan history for a large share of visitors, and the city has decided to live with it. The food is Dalmatian: grilled fish and squid, black risotto, oysters from Ston up the coast, pašticada, the Pelješac reds — Dingač and Postup — and rakija before and after. Prices inside the walls are the highest in Croatia; the konobas in Gruž and Lapad are where locals eat. Water polo is the sport, played in the sea at the old harbour, and Jug are among the best clubs in Europe; football is an afterthought.
The hard parts are, above all, the crowds. The old town has roughly a thousand permanent residents left, and on a summer day with two cruise ships in port the visitors outnumber them many times over; the city now caps ships and counts people at the gates, and UNESCO has warned it. Everything inside the walls costs about double the Croatian norm, housing across the city has gone to short-term lets, and a hotel wage does not buy a flat for a young local. Summers are hot and loud, winters dead and wet, and the bora wind closes the bridge and the cable car. It is at the far end of the country, with no railway and a road that runs through Bosnia or over the new Pelješac bridge. What it offers is a walled city of real beauty, a sea of extraordinary clarity, the islands and the wine country up the coast, and, out of season, one of the most pleasant small towns in the Mediterranean.
Where People Live
Old Town (Stari Grad)
The Stradun, the Rector's Palace, the Sponza and the cathedral, the walls above and the Buža bars on the rocks outside them. Busiest from ten to four when the ships are in; early morning and late evening are when it is itself.
Pile & Lovrijenac
The western gate where every bus and tour arrives, the Lovrijenac fort on its rock and the Gradac park behind. The entrance everyone uses and the bottleneck the city is trying to manage.
Ploče
East of the walls: the Lazareti quarantine buildings, now an arts centre, the Banje beach and the grand hotels along the cliff road, with the classic view back over the old harbour. Where the money stays.
Lapad
The pine-covered peninsula west of the port, with the Sunset beach, the Šetalište kralja Zvonimira promenade of cafés and the family hotels behind it. Where locals swim, and the most reasonable place to stay.
Babin Kuk
The resort end of the Lapad peninsula — the Copacabana beach, the big hotels and the coastal path round the headland. Package-holiday Dubrovnik, a 15-minute bus from the walls.
Gruž
The working harbour: the ferries and catamarans to the islands, the cruise terminal, the morning market, the bus station and the konobas locals actually use. The most ordinary part of the city, which is the point.
Mount Srđ
The bare hill behind the city, reached by the cable car or a zig-zag path, with the Napoleonic fort that held out in 1991 and now houses the Homeland War museum. The view is the whole of the coast.
Lokrum
The wooded island ten minutes by boat from the old harbour, with a Benedictine monastery, a botanical garden, peacocks, a salt lake and the rocks locals swim from. No hotels, no cars, last boat back at dusk.
Restaurants & places to go
360°
Restaurant · Opening hours: Tu-Su 18:00-24:30 · 360dubrovnik.com
Dubravka 1836 Restaurant & Cafe
Local, Seafood, Steak House, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 08:00-23:45 · 1 Brsalje, 20000 · nautikarestaurants.com
GreenGarden
Burger, Sandwich, Restaurant · Opening hours: May-Oct Mo-Su 15:00-23:00 · 22 Lapadska obala · greengarden.com.hr
Konoba Dubrava
Local, Regional, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 11:00-24:00 · Bosanka, Mlini, 20207 · konobadubrava.com
Marangun
Croatian, Mediterranean, Regional, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 11:00-24:00 · 20000 · marangun-restaurant.com
Porat
Local, Pizza, Seafood, Steak House, Cafe · Opening hours: Mo-Su 08:00-23:00 · 30 Obala Stjepana Radića, Dubrovnik, 20000 · poratresturantandbar.eatbu.hr
Posat
Local, Seafood, Steak House, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 11:00-23:00 · 1 Uz Posat, 20000 · posat-dubrovnik.com
Hard Rock Cafe
American, Restaurant · American restaurant · hardrockcafe.com
EDEN Kitchen & Bar
Regional, Burger, Italian, Seafood, Pasta, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 11:00-23:00 Features: vegetarian options, halal · 54 Ulica kardinala Alojzija… · atlantic-kitchen.com
MAYDA
Oriental, Bosnian, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 11:00-23:30 Features: vegetarian options, halal · maydadubrovnik.com
More
Seafood, Mediterranean, European, Croatian, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 12:00-22:00 Features: step-free access · 33 Kardinala Stepinca · restaurant-more.com
Restaurant and Bar Kazbek
Mediterranean, Croatian, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 07:00-23:00 Features: outdoor seating, vegetarian options, air conditioning · 25 Lapadska obala,… · kazbekdubrovnik.com
Sesame
Local, Seafood, Steak House, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 09:00-00:00 · 2 Dante Alighieria, 20000 · sesame.hr
Tabasco
Pizza, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 10:00-23:00; Jun-Oct Tu-Su 10:00-24:00 · 48A Maestra Đela Jusića, 20000 · pizzeriatabasco.hr
VegeDub
Burger, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 10:00-00:00 Features: outdoor seating, vegan options · Vetranićeva · vegedub.com
Konoba Propet
Local, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 16:00-00:00 Features: outdoor seating · 40 Put hrvatskih branitelja · konobapopret.com
Fresh Corner
Coffee Shop, Hot Dog, Sandwich, Pastry, Cafe · Opening hours: 24/7 Features: takeaway · 2c Ulica Vladimira Nazora, Dubrovnik, 20000
Bona Fide
Mexican, Pasta, Pizza, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 11:00-23:00 · 8 Čubranovićeva, 20000
Bosančica Dubrovnik
Burek, Fast Food · Opening hours: Mo-Sa 09:00-18:00; Su off Features: vegan options, halal
Lady Pi-Pi
Croatian, Seafood, Mediterranean, Barbecue, Restaurant · Opening hours: Fr-We 09:00-24:00 Features: outdoor seating, vegetarian options · 23 Peline, 20000
Otto street food
Burger, Friture, Sandwich, Fast Food · Opening hours: Mo-Sa 11:00-00:00; Su 16:00-00:00 Features: vegan options · 1 Ulica Pera Čingrije, 20000
Cogito Coffee
Coffee Shop, Cafe · Opening hours: Tu-Su 09:00-16:00 Features: outdoor seating, air conditioning · cogitocoffee.com
Jack's Food&Beer
Regional, Fast Food · Opening hours: Tu-Fr 10:00-01:00; Mo 17:00-01:00; Sa 11:00-01:00; Su 16:00-01:00 · m.facebook.com
La Dolce Vita
Ice Cream, Coffee, Crepe, Cafe · Opening hours: Mo-Su 09:00-23:00 Features: outdoor seating, takeaway · 1a Nalješkovićeva, 20000 · m.facebook.com
Republic
Burger, Fast Food · Opening hours: 12:00-22:00 · fast-food-republic.business.site
Stara Loza
Fine Dining, Croatian, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 08:00-23:00 · 22-24 Prijeko, 20000 · prijekopalace.com
Taj Mahal
Bosnian, Restaurant · Bosnian restaurant · 2 Nikole Gučetića, Dubrovnik, 20000 · tajmahal-dubrovnik.com
Kiba
Burger, Fast Food · Opening hours: 11:00-23:00 Features: outdoor seating · 1 Frana Supila
Pantarul
Restaurant · Opening hours: Tu-Su 12:00-23:59 · 1 Ulica Kralja Tomislava, Dubrovnik, 20000 · pantarul.com
Urban & Veggie
Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Sa 08:00-23:00 Features: vegan options · 13 Obala Stjepana Radića, Dubrovnik, 20000 · urbanveggie.restaurant
Chinese Restaurant Kun Lun
Chinese, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 11:00-23:00
Pjatanca
Croatian, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 10:00-00:00
Vita Bella Pizzeria
Italian Pizza, Croatian, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Sa 10:00-00:00; Su 16:00-00:00 · 37 Ulica Bana Josipa Jelačića, 20000
{Taj Mahal} bosnian restaurant
Balkan, Restaurant · Features: outdoor seating · 14 Iva Vojnovića · tajmahal-dubrovnik.com
Casa
Seafood, Mediterranean, Restaurant · Features: outdoor seating · restaurant-casa.com
Konoba Rašica
Regional, Restaurant · Features: step-free access · experience.dubrovnik.hr
Restoran Agora
Regional, Italian, Seafood, French, Ice Cream, Greek, Burger, Chicken, Fish, Restaurant · Features: outdoor seating, vegan options, air conditioning · 20… · hotelperladubrovnik.com
Konoba Veranda
Mediterranean, Restaurant · Mediterranean restaurant · konobaveranda.com
Orsan Restaurant
Seafood, Restaurant · Seafood restaurant · restaurant-orsan-dubrovnik.com
Panorama
Mediterranean, Regional, Seafood, Restaurant · Mediterranean/Regional restaurant · nautikarestaurants.com
Trattoria Carmen
Italian, Restaurant · Italian restaurant · trattoria-carmen-dubrovnik.com
Nishta
Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Sa 11:30-23:30 Features: outdoor seating, vegan options · Prijeko · nishtarestaurant.com
Orka
Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 16:00-24:00 Features: outdoor seating · 11a Lapadska obala, Dubrovnik, 20000 · orka-restaurant.com
Peppers eatery
Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 12:00-15:00, 17:30-22:00 · 20 Lapadska obala, Dubrovnik, 20000 · pepperseatery.com
Rudjer
Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 08:00-23:00 Features: outdoor seating · 6 Poljana Ruđera Boškovića, Dubrovnik, 20000 · rudjer.restaurant
Dvije Masline
Croatian, Cafe · Opening hours: Mo-Su 08:00-20:00
Konoba Dandy
Coffee Shop, Fish, Seafood, Pizza, Restaurant · Opening hours: PH,Mo-Su 09:00-22:30 Features: outdoor seating, vegetarian options
Konoba Tabak
Croatian, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 07:00-20:00 · 34 Vukovarska
Mamma Mia
Italian Pizza, Fast Food · Opening hours: Mo-Su 09:00-00:00 Features: step-free access · 10 Pera Čingrije
Paparazzo
Steak, Restaurant · Opening hours: 12:00-24:00
Pile Sandwich Bar
Regional, Fast Food · Opening hours: Mo-Su 09:00-23:00 Features: takeaway · 13 Ulica branitelja Dubrovnika, Dubrovnik, 20000
Pizzeria Tomato
Pizza, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Sa 11:00-22:30; Su off Features: outdoor seating · 14 Brsalje
Portun
Regional, Seafood, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 09:00-24:00 Features: outdoor seating · 2 Od Sigurate, Dubrovnik, 20000
Preša
Burger, čEvapi, Fast Food · Opening hours: PH,Mo-Su 10:00-23:30 Features: outdoor seating, takeaway
Taverna Loggia
International, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 08:00-00:00 Features: outdoor seating · 8 Ulica Nikole Tesle, Dubrovnik, 20000
Heritage of Dubrovnik
Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 12:00-22:00 · 32 Prijeko, Dubrovnik, 20000
Kasar
Fish, Local, Restaurant · Fish/Local restaurant · 29 Za crkvom, 20235 · restaurant-kasar.hr
Peppino's gelato garden
Ice Cream · Opening hours: 08:00-23:00 · Sv. Dominika, Dubrovnik, 20000 · peppinosgelato.com
Bocca Piena
Ice Cream · ice cream · 3 Od Puča, Dubrovnik, 20000 · boccapiena.com
Amfora
Local, Restaurant · Features: outdoor seating, step-free access, air conditioning · 26 Obala Stjepana Radića
Maslina Tavern
Croatian, Restaurant · Features: outdoor seating · 20 Masarykov put, Dubrovnik, 20000
Mea Culpa
Italian, Restaurant · Italian restaurant · 3 Za Rokom
Prova
Italian, Restaurant · Italian restaurant
Barba
Burger, Restaurant · Burger restaurant
Orhan
Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 09:00-24:00 Features: outdoor seating · 1 Od Tabakarije
Gradska kavana
Cafe · Features: outdoor seating · mea-culpa.hr
Coral Beach Club
Biergarten · biergarten · Šetnica Walking Trail · coral-beach-club.com
G Chelo Bar & Restaurant
Restaurant · restaurant · 17 Gornje Čelo, Koločep, 20221 · kalamota-beachhouse.com
Lokanda Peskarija
Restaurant · restaurant · Peskarija · mea-culpa.hr
Maskeron
Restaurant · restaurant · 1b Ulica kneza Domagoja · restaurant-maskeron.com
Proto
Restaurant · restaurant · Široka · esculaprestaurants.com
Taverna Arsenal
Restaurant · restaurant · mea-culpa.hr
Bokčilo
Regional, Seafood, Restaurant · Features: outdoor seating · Prijeko, Dubrovnik, 20000
FINGERLICKERS
Fish, Friture, Seafood, Fast Food · Features: outdoor seating
Jedro
Pizza, Kebab, Burger, Tex-Mex, Restaurant · Features: outdoor seating
Kamenice
Seafood, Croatian, Restaurant · Features: outdoor seating · 8 Gundulićeva poljana
Konoba Aquarius
Croatian, Restaurant · Features: outdoor seating
Konoba Sebastian
Mediterranean, Restaurant · Features: vegetarian options
Konoba Vala
Coffee Shop, Fish, Seafood, Pizza, Restaurant · Features: outdoor seating
M'arden
Regional, Restaurant · Features: outdoor seating
Nemo
Pizza, Regional, Restaurant · Features: outdoor seating
Refreshments
Juice, Fast Food · Features: outdoor seating
Soul Caffe
Sandwich, Coffee Shop, Cafe · Features: outdoor seating
Tirena
International, Fast Food · Features: outdoor seating, step-free access
Tutto Bene
Burger, Fast Food · Features: takeaway
Baltazar
Pizza, Restaurant · Pizza restaurant
Baracuda
Pasta, Pizza, Restaurant · Pasta/Pizza restaurant
Bazen
Regional, Restaurant · Regional restaurant
Bistro Gatto
Balkan, Croatian, Restaurant · Balkan/Croatian restaurant
Bonto
Korean, Restaurant · Korean restaurant
Caffe bar pizzeria Blue Planet
Pizza, Coffee Shop, Restaurant · Pizza/Coffee Shop restaurant · 3 Masarykov Put
Cantina Mexicana
Mexican, Restaurant · Mexican restaurant
Carpaccio Konoba
Mediterranean, Restaurant · Mediterranean restaurant
Congo Stradun
Breakfast, Cafe · Breakfast cafe
El Toro
Seafood, Balkan, Italian, Restaurant · Seafood/Balkan restaurant · 5 Ulica Iva Vojnovića, Dubrovnik, 20000
Giardino
Pizza, Restaurant · Pizza restaurant
Incredible India
Indian, Restaurant · Indian restaurant
Klarisa
Coffee Shop, Regional, Seafood, Restaurant · Coffee Shop/Regional restaurant
Komin
Regional, Restaurant · Regional restaurant
Konoba Capo
Mediterranean, Croatian, Breakfast, Restaurant · Mediterranean/Croatian restaurant
Konoba Dubrovnik
Regional, Restaurant · Regional restaurant · 102 Lozica, Lozica
Konoba Gusar
Regional, Restaurant · Regional restaurant · 28 Štikovica
Konoba-Pizzeria "Arka"
Pizza, Restaurant · Pizza restaurant
Lapad
Croatian, Restaurant · Croatian restaurant
Mamma
Pizza, Restaurant · Pizza restaurant
Moskar
Mediterranean, Restaurant · Mediterranean restaurant · 30A Prijeko
Oliva
Pizza, Restaurant · Pizza restaurant
Piramida
International, Restaurant · International restaurant
Pizzaria
Italian, Restaurant · Italian restaurant
Pizzeria La Luna
Balcan, Pizza, Restaurant · Balcan/Pizza restaurant · 60 A. Hebranga
Pizzeria Piccolo
Pizza, Restaurant · Pizza restaurant
Refresh
Juice, Fast Food · Juice fast food
Restaurant Pjerin
International, Restaurant · International restaurant · 6 Vlaha Bukovca, Dubrovnik, 20000
Scala
Pizza, Restaurant · Pizza restaurant
Šica
Pizza, Restaurant · Pizza restaurant
Spaghetteria Toni
Seafood, Pizza, Restaurant · Seafood/Pizza restaurant
Spagurtteria Toni
Italian, Restaurant · Italian restaurant
Streetfood Diverso
Burger, Restaurant · Burger restaurant
Turf & Surf
Seafood, Restaurant · Seafood restaurant
Vito Napoletana
Pizza, Restaurant · Pizza restaurant
Azur Dubrovnik
Restaurant · Opening hours: 13:00-23:00 Features: outdoor seating
Bananito
Ice Cream · Opening hours: Mo-Su 09:00-23:00 · 7 Placa
Beach Restaurant Ponta
Restaurant · Opening hours: Jun-Sep 12:00-17:00
Blidinje
Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 10:00-01:00
Dubrovnik
Ice Cream · Opening hours: Mo-Su 09:00-00:00
El-Paso Restauran Caffe
Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 07:00-24:00 Features: outdoor seating, air conditioning
Elafiti Restaurant
Restaurant · Opening hours: 06:00-10:30, 18:30-22:00
Forteca
Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 10:00-24:00
Hedera
Cafe · Opening hours: Mo-Su 07:00-23:00
Kiosk Dubrovnik
Fast Food · Opening hours: Mo-Su 11:00-23:00
Koogla
Ice Cream · Opening hours: Mo-Su 11:00-24:00 Features: outdoor seating, takeaway
Kopun
Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Sa 10:00-23:30; Su 10:00-23:00 · 7 Poljana Ruđera Boškovića
Lean & Light
Restaurant · Opening hours: Apr-Nov 11:00-16:00
Libertina
Cafe · Opening hours: Mo-Su 10:00-14:00
Maestoso
Cafe · Opening hours: 06:00-24:00 Features: step-free access
Marco Polo
Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 10:00-00:00 · 6 Lučarica, Dubrovnik, 20000
Mostro
Ice Cream · Opening hours: 09:00-22:00
Pivnica Dubrava
Restaurant · Opening hours: Tu-Su 12:00-00:00; Mo 17:00-00:00
Poklisar
Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 10:00-22:00
R & C Academia
Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 07:00-22:00 Features: vegetarian options, step-free access, air conditioning
Silk
Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 12:00-22:00
Tuttobene
Fast Food · Opening hours: 10:00-24:00 Features: air conditioning
Wanda
Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo,Tu 11:30-23:30; We-Su 11:30-24:00 Features: outdoor seating
Yummi
Fast Food · Opening hours: Mo-Su 17:00-01:00
Nautika
Restaurant · restaurant · nautikarestaurant.com
Orlando
Cafe · cafe · esculaprestaurants.com
Public Pub Dubrovnik
Restaurant · restaurant · public-pub-dubrovnik.eatbu.com
Konoba Škerac
Restaurant · restaurant · Gornje Čelo, Koločep, 20221
Langusto fine dining
Restaurant · restaurant
Amor
Cafe · Features: outdoor seating
Amoret
Cafe · Features: outdoor seating
Antika
Cafe · Features: outdoor seating
Betola
Cafe · Features: outdoor seating
Bòkār Dubrovnik
Restaurant · Features: outdoor seating, vegan options
Caffe Bar Salvatore
Cafe · Features: outdoor seating
Caffe Bar Sv. Petar
Cafe · Features: outdoor seating
Festival
Cafe · Features: outdoor seating, air conditioning
Ginger
Restaurant · Features: outdoor seating
Lacroma
Cafe · Features: outdoor seating, vegetarian options
Levanat
Restaurant · Features: step-free access
Micro
Cafe · Features: outdoor seating
Nono
Restaurant · Features: outdoor seating · 16 Šetalište kralja Zvonimira, Dubrovnik, 20000
Promenada
Cafe · Features: outdoor seating · 22 Šetalište kralja Zvonimira, Dubrovnik, 20000
Pull Over
Restaurant · Features: step-free access
Soul Kitchen
Restaurant · Features: vegan options
Street caffe
Cafe · Features: outdoor seating
Sunset Beach Bar & Lounge
Cafe · Features: outdoor seating · Gornje Čelo, Koločep, 20221
Veritas Konoba
Restaurant · Features: outdoor seating
Zoë
Restaurant · Features: step-free access
7 sins
Cafe · cafe
Arka
Restaurant · restaurant
aroma
Ice Cream · ice cream
Babilon
Restaurant · restaurant · 26 Bulet, Zaton, 20235
Barka
Restaurant · restaurant
Belvedere
Restaurant · restaurant
Bistro 49
Restaurant · restaurant · Obala pape Ivana Pavla II., Dubrovnik, 20000
Bonaca
Restaurant · restaurant
Bono
Restaurant · restaurant
Breakfest
Restaurant · restaurant
Buffet Škola
Fast Food · fast food
Burger Tiger
Restaurant · restaurant
Caffè bar Tinel
Cafe · cafe
Campari
Cafe · cafe
Cele
Cafe · cafe
congo
Restaurant · restaurant
Dalmatino
Restaurant · restaurant
Dix
Cafe · cafe
Dubrava
Cafe · cafe
Dubravka
Ice Cream · ice cream
Dundo Maroje
Restaurant · restaurant
edulis oyster bar
Restaurant · restaurant
Elafiti
Restaurant · restaurant
Europa
Cafe · cafe
Falcone
Restaurant · restaurant
Ferrari
Cafe · cafe
Fish Bar El Pulpo
Restaurant · restaurant · 6 Ulica Mata Vodopića, 20000
Fish Delish Dubrovnik
Fast Food · fast food
Fjelica
Restaurant · restaurant
Franck
Cafe · cafe
Fratellos
Restaurant · restaurant
Gajeta
Restaurant · restaurant
Giro
Cafe · cafe
Glam Cafe
Cafe · cafe · 5 Palmotićeva
Glorijet
Restaurant · restaurant
Gradskavana
Restaurant · restaurant
Gusta Me
Restaurant · restaurant
Hard Jazz caffe Trubadur
Cafe · cafe · 2 Bunićeva poljana
Horizont
Restaurant · restaurant · 8 Put od Bosanke, 20000
il vento
Restaurant · restaurant
Italiana Sandwich Bar
Fast Food · fast food
Koloseum
Restaurant · restaurant
Komarda
Restaurant · restaurant
Konavoka
Cafe · cafe
Konoba Dalmatino
Restaurant · restaurant
Konoba Kapetan
Restaurant · restaurant · 14 Prijeko
Konoba Moby Dick
Restaurant · restaurant
Konoba Sciabeco
Restaurant · restaurant
Kuhinja Dišpet
Fast Food · fast food
LAJK Restaurant Dubrovnik
Restaurant · restaurant
Laus
Restaurant · restaurant
Lucijan
Restaurant · restaurant
Lucin Kantun
Restaurant · restaurant · 4a Ulica Od Sigurate, 20000
Mabel
Cafe · cafe
Magnolia
Restaurant · restaurant
Mama's Pot
Restaurant · restaurant · Prijeko
Mezzanave
Restaurant · restaurant
Monachus monachus
Cafe · cafe · 50 Zagrebačka ulica
Nicos
Restaurant · restaurant
Panther
Cafe · cafe
Pek-Snack
Fast Food · fast food
Penatur
Biergarten · biergarten
Pepinos artesanal gelato
Ice Cream · ice cream
Petrunjela caffe
Cafe · cafe
Pizzeria Baracuda
Restaurant · restaurant
Pizzeria Castro
Restaurant · restaurant
Pizzeria Mirakul
Restaurant · restaurant
Pizzeria Peline
Restaurant · restaurant
Plaza
Restaurant · restaurant
Pup Tavern
Restaurant · restaurant
Pupo tavern
Restaurant · restaurant
Restaurant Madonna
Restaurant · restaurant
Restoran Bogo
Restaurant · restaurant
Retro
Cafe · cafe
Revelin
Biergarten · biergarten
Rhea Silvia
Cafe · cafe
Roxy Club caffe bar
Cafe · cafe
Rozario
Restaurant · restaurant
Segreto
Restaurant · restaurant
Serenada
Restaurant · restaurant · 25 Obala Stjepana Radića
Shizuku
Restaurant · restaurant
Škar
Restaurant · restaurant
Solitudo
Restaurant · restaurant
Sphere
Restaurant · restaurant
Storia
Restaurant · restaurant
Take away street food
Fast Food · fast food
Tavulin
Restaurant · restaurant
Teatar
Restaurant · restaurant · 1 Ulica Cvijete Zuzorić, 20000
Tezoro
Restaurant · restaurant
Turist
Fast Food · fast food
Vox Populi
Restaurant · restaurant · 2 Šetalište kralja Zvonimira, 20000
Wtsup kirm caffe
Cafe · cafe
Yes Yes
Fast Food · fast food
Zeppelin
Cafe · cafe
Zrinski
Cafe · cafe
Zuzori
Restaurant · restaurant
Airports
Dubrovnik Ruđer Bošković Airport (DBV) 17 km to the centre
Dubrovnik, 19, HR — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 20 airlines (Croatia Airlines, Norwegian Air Shuttle, Germanwings, Jet2.com…) · direct flights to 41 destinations incl. London, Birmingham, Duesseldorf, Manchester, Barcelona… (OpenFlights route data).
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 20 airlines, 41 direct destinations
- Croatia Airlines OU (A319, Dash 8-400, A320, A321, Embraer 195, EM2) · 14 routes: Amsterdam, Athens, Berlin, Duesseldorf, Frankfurt, Munich*, Osijek, Paris, Rijeka, Rome, Venice, Vienna*, Zagreb, Zurich
- Norwegian Air Shuttle DY (737-800) · 7 routes: Bergen, Helsinki, London, Oslo, Sandefjord, Stockholm, Trondheim
- Germanwings 4U (A319, A320, CRJ) · 6 routes: Berlin, Cologne, Duesseldorf, Hamburg, Hannover, Stuttgart
- Jet2.com LS (737-300) · 6 routes: Belfast, East Midlands, Edinburgh, Leeds, Manchester, Newcastle
- easyJet U2 (A320, A319) · 4 routes: Edinburgh, Geneva, London, London
- Transavia France TO (737-800, 75W) · 4 routes: Birmingham, London, Manchester, Paris
- Lufthansa Cargo LH (A319, A320, 735, Embraer 195) · 3 routes: Duesseldorf*, Frankfurt*, Munich
- Monarch Airlines ZB (A321, A320, 757-200) · 3 routes: Birmingham, London, Manchester
- Harmony Airways HQ (A320, A319) · 2 routes: Brussels, Lille
- Aer Lingus EI (A320) · 1 route: Dublin
- Austrian Airlines OS (A319, A320, A321) · 1 route: Vienna*
- British Airways BA (A319, 734) · 1 route: London
- Eurolot K2 (Dash 8-400) · 1 route: Warsaw
- Finnair AY (A320, A321) · 1 route: Helsinki
- Flybe BE (Embraer 175) · 1 route: Birmingham
- Iberia Airlines IB (A320) · 1 route: Barcelona*
- Luxair LG (Dash 8-400) · 1 route: Luxemburg
- Scandinavian Airlines System SK (737-800, 737-700) · 1 route: Stockholm
- Swiss International Air Lines LX (Dash 8-400) · 1 route: Zurich*
- Vueling Airlines VY (A320) · 1 route: Barcelona
Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.
Getting there by ferry
Dubrovnik
Ferry terminal · 1.1 km from the centre
Defora
Ferry terminal · 3.4 km from the centre
Lokrum
Ferry terminal · 3.8 km from the centre
Pristanište Gornje Čelo Koločep
Ferry terminal · 6.9 km from the centre
Koločep
Ferry terminal · 8.2 km from the centre
Srebreno
Ferry terminal · 9 km from the centre
Dubrovnik - Lokrum
Ferry route
Dubrovnik - Mlini
Ferry route
Mlini - Lokrum
Ferry route
Dubrovnik - Koločep - Lopud- Šipan
Ferry route
Mlini-Srebreno-Dubrovnik
Ferry route
Dubrovnik - Sobra - Polače
Ferry route
Rijeka - Split - Starigrad - Sobra - Dubrovnik
Ferry route · Jadrolinija
Bari - Dubrovnik
Ferry route · Jadrolinija
Local transit
Libertas
Bus · Dubrovnik's city buses between the Old Town, Lapad and Babin Kuk. · Fares: Ticket or kiosk card · Airport: Platanus airport shuttle to Pile Gate
Private aviation
On-demand charter, jet cards and the semi-private scheduled carriers that serve this city.
Air Charter Service
Broker · Any aircraft via operators worldwide · Global charter broker with 30+ offices; private jets, group charters and cargo.
ExecuJet
FBO, charter, management · Managed fleet · FBO network and management across Europe, Africa, the Middle East and Asia-Pacific.
Flexjet
Fractional, jet card · Embraer Praetor, Bombardier Challenger & Global, Gulfstream · Fractional ownership and jet cards in North America and Europe.
Global Jet
Charter, management · Large-cabin & VIP airliners · Geneva-based operator known for large-cabin and VIP airliner charters.
Jet Aviation
Charter, management, FBO, MRO · Managed fleet worldwide · General Dynamics company: charter, completions and FBOs in Europe, the Middle East, Asia and the US.
Tours & experiences
Segway City Tour Dubrovnik
Bike Tour
Living Here
Getting about
- Libertas runs the city buses, which are the whole public-transport system — there is no tram, no metro and no railway. Lines 1A, 1B, 3 and 8 link Pile, Gruž and Lapad; tickets are cheaper from a Tisak kiosk than from the driver, and a day pass is worth it if you are staying outside the walls.
- The old town is car-free and mostly steps; the cable car does Srđ, and boats to Lokrum and the Elaphiti islands leave from the old harbour. Jadrolinija ferries and the Krilo and TP Line catamarans run from Gruž to Mljet, Korčula, Hvar and Split in season.
- The airport at Čilipi is about 20 kilometres south, roughly 30 minutes to Pile and Gruž on the Platanus shuttle bus. Split is about four hours by bus, Kotor two and Mostar three; the coast road runs through the Neum corridor of Bosnia or over the Pelješac bridge.
- A car is a burden in the city — parking is scarce and expensive — but useful for the coast and Montenegro; Uber and Bolt both operate, and taxi fares to the airport are more or less fixed.
Health
- Dubrovnik General Hospital, out in Lapad, handles most things; serious cases go to Split. Residents are covered by the HZZO public insurance, and private polyclinics open for the season to deal with visitors in English.
- Dial 112, or 194 for an ambulance. Pharmacies (ljekarna) are in the old town, Gruž and Lapad, with one on a 24-hour rota.
- EU and UK visitors can use the EHIC or GHIC; everyone else should carry insurance. Sea urchins, sunburn and the walls' steps in the midday heat are the commonest problems.
Work & study
- The University of Dubrovnik, founded in 2003, specialises in maritime studies, aquaculture, electrical engineering and tourism; RIT Croatia's campus teaches American degrees in English, and the Inter-University Centre has hosted postgraduate courses since 1972.
- Tourism is the economy — the hotels, the cruise port, the restaurants, the airport and everything that serves them — with maritime work, aquaculture at Ston, some IT and the public sector making up the rest. The season runs from April to October, and much of the town lives on what it earns then.
- EU citizens can work freely; non-EU workers need a permit tied to an employer, and seasonal permits are common. English is enough in hospitality and Croatian is needed almost everywhere else.
Money & manners
- Croatia adopted the euro in 2023, and prices rose with it. Cards are widely accepted but the markets and some konobas prefer cash. Tip around 10% in restaurants; VAT is included. The old town charges what it can and Gruž charges what things cost.
- Say dobar dan on entering a shop; cover up in churches and, by city rule, in the streets away from the beach, where wandering around in swimwear can attract a fine. The pace is pomalo — slowly — and the old town has a legal quiet after midnight that the bars mostly observe.
- Summers are hot and dry with the sea warm from May to October; winters are mild, wet and empty, and the bora can shut everything for a day. June and September are the best months. The Summer Festival runs from 10 July to 25 August and St Blaise's day, 3 February, is the city's own holiday.