Barcelona is three cities laid side by side — a medieval maze, a 19th-century grid of Modernista fantasy, and a Mediterranean beach — and the point of living here is moving between them in a day.
Start with the map. The old town — the Barri Gòtic, the Born, the Raval — is a tangle of medieval lanes between the port and the Plaça de Catalunya. Above it, the Eixample is Ildefons Cerdà's 1859 grid: octagonal blocks with chamfered corners, laid out for light and air, and filled over the next fifty years with the buildings of Gaudí, Domènech i Montaner and the Modernistas. Above that the hills — Gràcia, once a separate village, and Montjuïc and Tibidabo bracketing the city. And at the bottom, since the 1992 Olympics tore down the warehouses, the beach.
Barcelona is Catalan first. Catalan is the language of the schools, the street signs and the city hall, Spanish is spoken everywhere too, and the tension between Catalonia and Madrid — over language, money and the independence question — is the constant hum beneath the city's politics. A visitor need not take a side, but should notice that the flag on the balcony is not the Spanish one, and that a few words of Catalan open doors that Castilian does not.
The city eats late and well. Lunch at two, dinner at nine or ten; a vermouth at noon on a weekend is a civic institution. The Boqueria is the famous market and Santa Caterina and Sant Antoni the better ones. The Born and Gràcia hold the newer bars and restaurants; Barceloneta the seafood; and the pintxo bars of Carrer Blai in Poble-sec the cheap night out. Some of the world's most awarded restaurants are here, and so is a perfectly good bocadillo for four euros.
The great strain on the place is its own success. Tourism dwarfs the city — some thirty million visitors a year against 1.6 million residents — and it has pushed up rents, hollowed out the old town and produced a real, organised local backlash: restrictions on tourist flats, a plan to phase them out entirely, protests on the Rambla. Live here well by living like a resident: a neighbourhood outside the centre, the market not the supermarket, and the beach on a weekday. The city is generous to people who treat it as a home rather than a backdrop.
The medieval core — cathedral, Roman walls, hidden squares. Magnificent and overrun; the lanes toward the sea and the Call (the old Jewish quarter) are the quiet corners.
Medieval palaces turned bars, boutiques and the Picasso Museum, with the Santa Maria del Mar basilica at its heart. The most stylish of the old-town quarters.
Cerdà's grid — Gaudí's Passeig de Gràcia on the Dreta side, the gay village and quieter streets on the Esquerra. Where most Barcelonans actually live and shop.
The former village up the hill: small squares, independent shops, the August festa major when the streets are decorated by their residents. Neighbourly and much loved.
Below Montjuïc, the working-class quarters turned bar districts — Carrer Blai's pintxos, the rebuilt Sant Antoni market, and the theatres of Paral·lel.
The fishermen's grid by the beach, then the old factory district reinventing itself as the design and tech quarter along the sea toward the Fòrum.
Gaudí's still-unfinished basilica, unlike any church on earth inside or out. Book a timed ticket well ahead — walk-ups are turned away.
Gaudí's mosaic terraces and gingerbread gatehouses on a hill with a city-and-sea view. The monumental zone is ticketed and timed; the surrounding park is free.
Two Gaudí apartment houses on Passeig de Gràcia — the dragon-scale façade of one, the wave-stone and rooftop chimneys of the other.
The medieval old town — narrow stone lanes, hidden squares and the Gothic cathedral with its cloister of geese. Best simply wandered.
The great covered market off La Rambla — jamón, seafood, juices and a few standing counters for lunch. Go early, eat at the back.
The city beach and the seafood quarter behind it — a swim, a paella, and the boardwalk toward the Olympic port.
The artist's early work, strongest on his Barcelona years, in a run of medieval palaces in the Born. Book ahead.
A Modernista concert hall of stained glass and mosaic — take the tour, or better, catch a concert.
Romanesque frescoes and Catalan art in the palace on Montjuïc, with a terrace over the city — a full wet afternoon.
The Barcelona rainy-day institution: house vermouth on tap, olives and conservas, somewhere in Gràcia or the Born.
. Medieval, Modern and 20th-century Art. Panoramic views of Barcelona. Twitter: @MuseuNac_Cat Blog: http://blog.museunacional.cat/ · museunacional.cat
beach clubs · <p class="ProfileHeaderCard-bio u-dir" dir="ltr">Perfect urban oasis to explore a 360 experience in Barcelona. <a… · purobeach.com
Passeig Marítim, 34, 08003 Barcelona, Spain · opiumbarcelona.com
Italian restaurants
Barcelona, CT, ES — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 69 airlines (Iberia Airlines, Vueling Airlines, Ryanair, easyJet…) · direct flights to 163 destinations incl. New York, London, Palma de Mallorca, Vienna, Amsterdam… (OpenFlights route data).
Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.
Sabadell, CT, ES
Barcelona, CT, ES
Manresa, CT, ES
Sant Pere Sallavinera, CT, ES
Avinyó Nou, CT, ES
Further out, but often the cheapest way in — the airports the low-cost carriers use. Each links to its own town's guide for getting from there into the city.
Girona, CT, ES — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 4 airlines (Ryanair, Transavia Holland, Wizz Air Ukraine, Harmony Airways) · direct flights to 49 destinations incl. Alghero, Amsterdam, Beauvais, Bergamo, Billund… (OpenFlights route data).
✈ Feeder airport · 76 km from Barcelona · Ryanair, Transavia Holland, Wizz Air Ukraine · Getting around Girona →
Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.
Reus, CT, ES — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 4 airlines (Ryanair, Jet2.com, Transavia France, Harmony Airways) · direct flights to 16 destinations incl. Manchester, Bristol, Belfast, Birmingham, Brussels… (OpenFlights route data).
✈ Feeder airport · 87 km from Barcelona · Ryanair, Jet2.com, Transavia France · Getting around Reus →
Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.
Ferry terminal · 2 km from the centre · Alsa
Ferry terminal · 2.4 km from the centre
Ferry terminal · 2.4 km from the centre
Ferry terminal · 3 km from the centre · Alsa
Ferry terminal · 3.1 km from the centre
Ferry terminal · 4.7 km from the centre
Ferry route · Alsa
Ferry route
Ferry route
Ferry route
Ferry route
Ferry route · Baleària
Ferry route
Ferry route
Metro, bus · Barcelona's metro and bus network. · Fares: T-casual or Hola Barcelona card · Airport: Metro L9 Sud or the R2 Nord train from El Prat
Tram · Barcelona · Schedules & GTFS data (official feed)
Tram · Barcelona · Schedules & GTFS data (official feed)
Public transit · Schedules & GTFS data
Public transit · Schedules & GTFS data
Rail operator
Rail operator
Rail operator
National rail
About seven and a half hours; the AVE train takes two and a half. · Madrid guide →
On-demand charter, jet cards and the semi-private scheduled carriers that serve this city.
Broker · Any aircraft via operators worldwide · Global charter broker with 30+ offices; private jets, group charters and cargo.
FBO, charter, management · Managed fleet · FBO network and management across Europe, Africa, the Middle East and Asia-Pacific.
Fractional, jet card · Embraer Praetor, Bombardier Challenger & Global, Gulfstream · Fractional ownership and jet cards in North America and Europe.
Charter, management · Large-cabin & VIP airliners · Geneva-based operator known for large-cabin and VIP airliner charters.
Charter, management, FBO, MRO · Managed fleet worldwide · General Dynamics company: charter, completions and FBOs in Europe, the Middle East, Asia and the US.
Bus Tour
Sightseeing
Walking Tour
Bus Tour
Bike Tour
Sightseeing