Ultimate Edition

Paris, France

Published for the City of Light and the Île-de-France
FR Monday, October 12, 2026 Vol. MMCCLXXVI · Est. -250
Guides › France › Paris, France

The most planned city that still feels improvised

Haussmann drew the boulevards, but Paris is lived in the gaps between them — the quartiers, the cafés, the markets. The trick is to treat it as a set of villages that happen to share a skyline.

Paris
Paris — Wikipedia / Wikimedia Commons · See source page

Paris is small. That is the first thing to know and the last thing visitors believe. The city proper — the twenty arrondissements inside the Périphérique ring road — is about a hundred square kilometres, roughly the size of a mid-sized American suburb, and two million people live in it. Everything the postcards show is walkable from everything else. The other ten million Parisians live outside the ring, in the banlieue, and that division — inside and outside the Périph — explains more about the city's politics, prices and rhythms than any other fact.

The city you walk through is largely one man's project. Baron Haussmann, under Napoleon III in the 1850s and 60s, drove the boulevards through the medieval city, standardised the cream-stone buildings with their zinc roofs and wrought-iron balconies, and laid in the parks, sewers and stations. The result is a place of extraordinary visual coherence — you can be anywhere in Paris and know it — that also destroyed most of what came before. What survived Haussmann is what you go looking for: the Marais, the Latin Quarter's lanes, the passages, Montmartre's village on its hill.

The arrondissements spiral outward from the Louvre like a snail's shell, and Parisians navigate by them. The 1st to 8th are the grand centre. The 5th and 6th are the old Left Bank of universities and publishers; the 3rd and 4th the Marais; the 9th, 10th and 11th the younger, denser east where the food and bars have moved; the 16th and 17th the bourgeois west; the 18th, 19th and 20th the working-class and immigrant north-east that is where the city is actually changing. Learn the numbers and the map organises itself.

Daily life runs on the café, the boulangerie and the market. A coffee at the bar is a small ritual and a cheap one; a table on the terrace costs more and buys you the street. Bread is bought daily, and the neighbourhood boulangerie is a genuine institution with a legally protected name. The covered and street markets — Aligre, Bastille, Raspail — are where Parisians actually shop. The famous restaurants are worth it; the neighbourhood bistro with a chalkboard menu is the culture.

For a longer stay the calculus is space against location. Apartments are small and old, rents are high, and the good neighbourhoods are the ones with a market and a metro stop rather than a monument. Public transport is superb — the Métro reaches everywhere and a Navigo pass makes it cheap — and a car is a liability. What you buy with the compromise is a city built for walking and looking, where the ordinary Tuesday errand takes you past something beautiful. Parisians complain about it constantly and almost never leave.

Where People Live

The neighbourhoods

Le Marais (3e/4e)

The medieval and aristocratic quarter that Haussmann missed — hôtels particuliers, the Place des Vosges, the old Jewish street of Rue des Rosiers, and the city's gay village. Beautiful, expensive and crowded on weekends.

Saint-Germain-des-Prés (6e)

The Left Bank of the publishers and the famous cafés, now more luxury than literary. Still the loveliest streets to walk, and the Luxembourg Gardens are the city's best park.

Montmartre (18e)

The village on the hill — stairs, vineyards, artists' studios and Sacré-Cœur. Tourist-thick at the summit, genuinely local on the north and west slopes around Lamarck and Abbesses.

Canal Saint-Martin & the 10e

Iron footbridges over a working canal, and the neighbourhood that became the centre of the city's newer food and bar scene. Young, mixed and still affordable at the edges.

Belleville & Ménilmontant (19e/20e)

The multicultural, hilly north-east — Chinese and North African Belleville, street art, Père Lachaise cemetery, and the best cheap eating in Paris. Where the city's energy has moved.

Latin Quarter (5e)

The Sorbonne's district since the Middle Ages: bookshops, the Panthéon, Rue Mouffetard's market street. The lanes near Saint-Michel are tourist traps; the ones toward the Jardin des Plantes are not.

Major sights

Eiffel Tower

Better as a landmark to orient by than a queue to climb — the view of it from the Trocadéro or Champ de Mars beats the view from it. Sparkles on the hour after dark.

Louvre

Too big to 'do' — pick a wing and go at opening or on a late-night Wednesday/Friday. Book a timed ticket; the Mona Lisa is a scrum, the rest often empty.

Indoors

Notre-Dame & Île de la Cité

The Gothic cathedral, reopened after the 2019 fire, on the island where the city began. Sainte-Chapelle nearby is the stained-glass one to book.

Indoors

Musée d'Orsay

The Impressionists in a converted Beaux-Arts railway station — a more manageable and arguably more rewarding museum than the Louvre.

Indoors

Montmartre & Sacré-Cœur

Hilltop village of stairs and studios topped by a white basilica, with the best free panorama in the city. Touristy at the summit, lovely on the back lanes.

Le Marais

The best neighbourhood to simply walk — medieval streets, the Place des Vosges, falafel on Rue des Rosiers, and small museums (Picasso, Carnavalet).

When it rains

Musée de l'Orangerie

Monet's Water Lilies in two oval rooms built for them, plus a jewel-box Impressionist collection below. Small enough to do in an hour.

Indoors

Covered passages

19th-century glass-roofed arcades — Galerie Vivienne, Passage des Panoramas — for dry wandering, old bookshops and tea rooms.

Indoors

Centre Pompidou

Modern art behind the inside-out façade; the top-floor escalator gives a rooftop view. (Note: due to close for a long renovation — check ahead.)

Indoors

A grand café

The civilised rainy-day move: nurse a coffee or a glass of wine at a marble table and watch the street. That is the culture, not a detour from it.

Restaurants & places to go

Huîtres Amélie Paris

oysters · . Probably one of the best oysters in the world 🌍 📍Paris | Milano | Rome | Barcelona | Madrid | London | Geneva | Ibiza | Monaco 👇 Shop… · huitresamelie.com

Indoors

Harry's New York Bar

Sidecar martinis, sidecars, cocktail lounges, cocktails · harrysbar.com

Indoors

Le Trianon Theatre

theatres · letrianon.fr

Indoors

Assanabel

Indoors

Big Black Cook

Indoors

Chouchou

Indoors

DÉLIT.

Indoors

Les Turbines

Indoors

Loulou

Indoors

Maison Pillet

Indoors

Noûsh

Indoors

Oktobre

Indoors

Ostra

Indoors

Selva

Indoors

Union Square

Indoors

Airports

Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG) 23 km to the centre

Paris (Roissy-en-France, Val-d'Oise), IDF, FR — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 108 airlines (Air France, Alitalia, easyJet, Delta Air Lines…) · direct flights to 237 destinations incl. New York, Chicago, Miami, Toulouse, Casablanca… (OpenFlights route data).

Indoor
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 108 airlines, 237 direct destinations

Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.

Paris Orly Airport (ORY) 14 km to the centre

Paris (Orly, Val-de-Marne), IDF, FR — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 30 airlines (Air France, Transavia France, Iberia Airlines, Vueling Airlines…) · direct flights to 119 destinations incl. Lisbon, Porto, Palma de Mallorca, Cayenne, Djerba… (OpenFlights route data).

Indoor
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 30 airlines, 119 direct destinations

Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.

Paris-Le Bourget International Airport (LBG) 14 km to the centre

Paris, IDF, FR — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather.

Indoor

Toussus-le-Noble Airport (TNF) 21 km to the centre

Toussus-le-Noble, Yvelines, IDF, FR — Indoor waiting areas, but some gates board by bus or on foot across the apron — plan for the weather on the day.

Indoor | Outdoor

Pontoise-Cormeilles Aerodrome (POX) 35 km to the centre

Cormeilles-en-Vexin, Val-d'Oise, IDF, FR — Indoor waiting areas, but some gates board by bus or on foot across the apron — plan for the weather on the day.

Indoor | Outdoor

Melun-Villaroche Airfield 37 km to the centre

Moissy-Cramayel, Seine-et-Marne, IDF, FR — Indoor waiting areas, but some gates board by bus or on foot across the apron — plan for the weather on the day.

Indoor | Outdoor

Regional airports

Further out, but often the cheapest way in — the airports the low-cost carriers use. Each links to its own town's guide for getting from there into the city.

Beauvais–Tillé Airport (BVA) 69 km to the centre

Beauvais, HDF, FR — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 4 airlines (Ryanair, Wizz Air, Air Moldova, Eurolot) · direct flights to 59 destinations incl. Vilnius, Alghero, Alicante, Arrecife, Barcelona… (OpenFlights route data).

✈ Feeder airport · 69 km from Paris · Ryanair, Wizz Air, Air Moldova · Getting around Beauvais →

Indoor
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 4 airlines, 59 direct destinations

Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.

Getting there by ferry

Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Ferry terminal · 0.6 km from the centre · Batobus

Notre-Dame

Ferry terminal · 0.8 km from the centre · Batobus

Louvre

Ferry terminal · 0.9 km from the centre · Batobus

Hôtel-de-Ville

Ferry terminal · 0.9 km from the centre · Batobus

Musée d'Orsay

Ferry terminal · 1.3 km from the centre · Batobus

Jardin des Plantes

Ferry terminal · 1.8 km from the centre · Batobus

Saint-Germain-des-Prés – Notre-Dame

Ferry route · Batobus

Hôtel-de-Ville – Louvre

Ferry route · Batobus

Musée d'Orsay – Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Ferry route · Batobus

Notre-Dame – Jardin des Plantes

Ferry route · Batobus

Batobus : Tour de Paris

Ferry route · Batobus

Batobus : Tour de Paris via Beaugrenelle

Ferry route · Batobus

Invalides – Musée d'Orsay

Ferry route · Batobus

Louvre – Place de la Concorde

Ferry route · Batobus

Local transit

RATP

Metro, bus, tram, RER · The Métro, buses, trams and RER lines within Paris. · Fares: Navigo card or Navigo Easy · Airport: RER B from Charles de Gaulle; Orlyval and Metro 14

Les Canards de Paris

Public transit · Schedules & GTFS data

Île-de-France Mobilités (IDFM)

Public transit · Schedules & GTFS data

Le Titus

Public transit · Schedules & GTFS data

Trains & rail

Lyria

Rail operator

SNCF Voyageurs

Rail operator

Transilien

Rail operator

Eurostar ← London, England (UK)

High-speed trains London–Paris, Brussels and Amsterdam through the Channel Tunnel. · London, England (UK) guide →

Coaches & shuttles

FlixBus → Brussels/Bruxelles

About four hours from Paris Bercy; Eurostar does it in 80 minutes. · Brussels/Bruxelles guide →

BlaBlaCar Bus

Intercity coach

Private aviation

On-demand charter, jet cards and the semi-private scheduled carriers that serve this city.

Air Charter Service

Broker · Any aircraft via operators worldwide · Global charter broker with 30+ offices; private jets, group charters and cargo.

ExecuJet

FBO, charter, management · Managed fleet · FBO network and management across Europe, Africa, the Middle East and Asia-Pacific.

Flexjet

Fractional, jet card · Embraer Praetor, Bombardier Challenger & Global, Gulfstream · Fractional ownership and jet cards in North America and Europe.

Global Jet

Charter, management · Large-cabin & VIP airliners · Geneva-based operator known for large-cabin and VIP airliner charters.

Jet Aviation

Charter, management, FBO, MRO · Managed fleet worldwide · General Dynamics company: charter, completions and FBOs in Europe, the Middle East, Asia and the US.

Tours & experiences

Pinky Tour - Paris

Sightseeing

Paris Food & Wine Experience

Food & Wine · 4 hours · from €89/pp

Tour Saint-Jacques

Sightseeing

Living Here

Practical notes for residents

Getting about

  • Sixteen Métro lines reach almost everywhere inside the Périphérique, rarely more than a few minutes' walk from a station. The Navigo pass (weekly or monthly, on a card) is the way to pay; single tickets are being phased into the same card. The RER suburban lines link the airports, Versailles and Disneyland.
  • Buses are slower but scenic, and Vélib' bike-sharing works well along the river and the new cycle lanes. Paris has spent a decade taking road space from cars, and it shows.
  • Charles de Gaulle (CDG) is 35–50 minutes out by RER B; Orly by Métro line 14 or the Orlyval. Six mainline stations serve the rest of France and Europe — London is two and a quarter hours from Gare du Nord.
  • Driving in Paris is possible and pointless. Parking is scarce, the ring road is a permanent jam, and the centre is progressively closing to through traffic.

Health

  • AP-HP runs the public hospitals — Pitié-Salpêtrière in the 13e is the largest, Hôtel-Dieu beside Notre-Dame the oldest, and Necker the children's hospital. Care is excellent; waits in emergency departments can be long.
  • Dial 15 for SAMU (medical emergency) or 112. Pharmacies carry a green cross and pharmacists give real advice; a rota keeps some open all night, posted on the door.
  • EU visitors use the EHIC card; others should carry insurance. Seeing a GP (médecin généraliste) is inexpensive and usually same-week; Doctolib is the app everyone books through.

Work & study

  • The Sorbonne's successor universities, Sciences Po, the grandes écoles and the PSL research cluster make the Left Bank one of the densest academic districts in the world. Students keep the 5e and 6e cheap to eat in, if not to live in.
  • La Défense, the skyscraper district beyond the western ring, is the corporate centre; the ministries and the great institutions are in the 7e and 8e. Station F and the 13e are the start-up quarter.
  • Fashion, luxury, publishing, film and food are the industries Paris still leads in. Expect the working week to be genuinely 35 hours and August to be genuinely absent.

Money & manners

  • Euro. Cards are accepted almost everywhere, including at the bakery. Service is included in restaurant prices by law; leaving a few coins is a courtesy, not an obligation.
  • Say bonjour when you enter a shop and au revoir when you leave — it is not optional, and the difference in how you are treated is remarkable. Start in French even if you finish in English.
  • Sunday is quiet and Monday closes many museums and restaurants. Most shops shut for at least part of August, when Paris hands itself to visitors.

Sources

Everything above is checkable