Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
The first American city, still arguing with everyone including itself
Philadelphia wrote the founding documents, built half the country's locomotives, then spent fifty years being told it was finished. It is the cheapest big city on the north-east corridor, the most loyal, and the one with the least patience for being underestimated.
William Penn laid out Philadelphia in 1682 as the capital of his Quaker colony, on Lenape land between the Delaware and the Schuylkill, with a grid and five public squares that are still there. It was the largest city in the colonies by the Revolution: the Continental Congress met here, the Declaration was signed in 1776 and the Constitution written in 1787, and it served as the national capital from 1790 to 1800. Through the 19th century it was the 'Workshop of the World' — textiles, locomotives, ships, Stetson hats — and the Consolidation Act of 1854 made city and county one. Industry left after 1950 and the population fell from about two million to around 1.5 million, with the MOVE bombing of 1985 the low point of a hard era. It has been growing again, slowly, since the mid-2000s, and is the sixth-largest city in the United States.
Penn's grid still governs. Center City runs between the two rivers: Old City and Society Hill by the Delaware, with Independence Hall and the Liberty Bell; Washington Square West, Chinatown and the Gayborhood in the middle; Rittenhouse Square and its expensive blocks to the west. Broad Street runs north–south and Market Street east–west, and City Hall, with Penn on top, sits at the crossing. South Philadelphia is rowhouses, the Italian Market, East Passyunk and, at the bottom, the stadium complex. Across the Schuylkill is University City — Penn, Drexel and the hospitals — and then the long streets of West Philly. North along the Delaware are Northern Liberties, Fishtown and Kensington; Temple is up North Broad. The Benjamin Franklin Parkway leads from City Hall to the Art Museum and Fairmount Park, one of the largest urban parks in the country; Manayunk, Germantown and Chestnut Hill are the leafy north-west; the Main Line suburbs run out along the old railway.
It is the most sports-obsessed city in America, and not gently: the Eagles, Phillies, Sixers, Flyers and Union all play here, and the fans' reputation is earned, though the Eagles' Super Bowl wins in 2018 and 2025 have improved the mood. The food is working-class and specific — cheesesteaks (the tourist corner of Pat's and Geno's is not where locals go), roast pork sandwiches, hoagies, soft pretzels, water ice, Reading Terminal Market and a BYOB restaurant culture that keeps prices down. The Philadelphia Museum of Art, the Barnes, the Rodin and the Franklin Institute line the Parkway; the Mütter Museum is the one people talk about. The Philadelphia Orchestra is among the world's best, the mural programme has painted thousands of walls, and the Mummers march on New Year's Day. It is a dense, rowhouse, walking city of blunt, funny, loyal people, with a chip on its shoulder about New York that it has mostly earned the right to.
The hard parts are real. Philadelphia has the highest poverty rate of any large American city, at somewhere over 20%; the opioid crisis in Kensington is the worst in the country and visible; and gun violence, which spiked in 2020–21, has fallen sharply since but not to nothing. The city wage tax, around 3.75% for residents, is a persistent grievance. SEPTA is a real transit system but chronically underfunded, and the state fights over its budget every year. The summers are humid, the winters grey and cold, and the streets are not clean. What it offers is the most affordable big city on the north-east corridor, a genuinely walkable and historic core, world-class hospitals and universities, an hour and a quarter to New York and two to Washington by train, and a civic character that is impossible to fake.
Where People Live
Old City & Society Hill
Independence Hall, the Liberty Bell, Elfreth's Alley and Christ Church, then Society Hill's Georgian streets — the best-preserved colonial neighbourhood in the country. Galleries and bars on the Old City side, quiet money on the other.
Rittenhouse & Center City West
The square and its surrounding blocks: the expensive apartments, the restaurants on Walnut and Sansom, the shops on Chestnut, and the Schuylkill River trail at the bottom of the hill. Where Center City goes to dinner.
South Philly & East Passyunk
Rowhouses, the Italian Market on Ninth Street, the cheesesteak corner, and East Passyunk Avenue's restaurant row; Vietnamese, Mexican and Cambodian kitchens have joined the Italian ones. The stadiums are at the bottom of Broad.
Fishtown & Northern Liberties
Old working-class streets along the Delaware that became the bar, music and restaurant district: Johnny Brenda's, Frankford Avenue, the Fillmore, and rents to match. Kensington, north of it, is the city's hardest neighbourhood.
University City
Across the Schuylkill: Penn, Drexel, the hospitals, 30th Street Station and the food trucks on Spruce and Walnut; Clark Park and Baltimore Avenue further west are where the graduate students settle.
Fairmount & the Art Museum
The Parkway's museums, Eastern State Penitentiary, the Rocky steps, Boathouse Row and the entrance to Fairmount Park. A pleasant, slightly sleepy neighbourhood of brunch and dog-walkers.
Chinatown & Washington Square West
Chinatown's restaurants and bakeries by the convention centre and Reading Terminal Market; the Gayborhood's bars, the Walnut Street theatres and Jefferson's hospital campus just south. Dense, central, useful.
Manayunk & Chestnut Hill
The north-west: Manayunk's canal, towpath, Main Street bars and the hill the bike race climbs; Chestnut Hill's stone houses, Germantown Avenue shops and the Wissahickon gorge, the best walk in the city.
Must-see attractions
Liberty Bell
6th St & Market St, Philadelphia, PA 19106
Eat & drink
Pat’s King of Steaks
Restaurant — 1237 E. Passyunk Ave (at 9th & Wharton Sts) Philadelphia, PA 19147
Steve's Prince of Steaks, Philadelphia
Restaurant
Restaurants & places to go
Maggiano's Little Italy, Philadelphia
Italian restaurants · maggianos.com
Chima Steakhouse Philadelphia
Brazilian steakhouses, Brazilian steak houses · . Sharing a one-of-kind experience. For reservations call:(215) 525-3233. Learn more about our happy hour… · chimasteakhouse.com
Algar Ferrari of Philadelphia
<p class="ProfileHeaderCard-bio u-dir" dir="ltr">Pennsylvania’s Exclusive Official Ferrari Dealer • Monday - Friday: 9AM - 6PM • Saturday: 10AM - 4PM… · philadelphia.ferraridealers.com
Angelo's Pizzeria South Philly
Philly cheesesteaks · angelosphl.com
Ripplewood Whiskey & Craft
craft whiskey, bars, restaurants · 29 E Lancaster Ave, Ardmore, PA 19003 · ripplewoodbar.com
Kilimandjaro
West African restaurants · 4317 Chestnut St, Philadelphia, PA 19104
Le Bec-Fin
defunct French restaurants
Airports
Philadelphia International Airport (PHL) 7 mi to the centre
Philadelphia, PA, US — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 23 airlines (American Airlines, US Airways, Southwest Airlines, Delta Air Lines…) · direct flights to 122 destinations incl. Atlanta, Denver, London, Fort Lauderdale, Las Vegas… (OpenFlights route data).
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 23 airlines, 122 direct destinations
- American Airlines AA (CRJ, Dash 8-300, A319, A320, Embraer 190, A321…) · 118 routes: Akron*, Albany, Allentown, Amsterdam, Athens, Atlanta*, Austin, Baltimore, Bangor*, Barcelona, Bermuda, Binghamton, Birmingham*, Boston, Brussels, Buffalo, Burlington, Cancun, Charleston*, Charlotte, Charlottesville VA, Chicago, Cincinnati, Cleveland*, Columbia*, Columbus*, Dallas-Fort Worth, Dayton, Denver, Detroit, Doha, Dublin, Elmira, Erie, Fort Lauderdale, Fort Myers, Frankfurt, Georgetown, Glasgow, Greensboro* … +78 more
- US Airways US (CRJ, A319, A320, DH8, Embraer 190, Embraer 175…) · 117 routes: Akron, Albany*, Allentown*, Amsterdam, Athens, Atlanta, Austin, Baltimore, Bangor*, Barcelona, Bermuda, Binghamton*, Birmingham, Boston, Brussels, Buffalo*, Burlington, Cancun, Charleston, Charlotte, Charlottesville VA*, Chicago, Cincinnati, Cleveland*, Columbia*, Columbus*, Dallas-Fort Worth, Dayton, Denver, Detroit, Dublin, Elmira*, Erie*, Fort Lauderdale, Fort Myers, Frankfurt, Georgetown, Glasgow, Greensboro*, Greenville* … +77 more
- Southwest Airlines WN (737-700, 73C, 737-300, 717, 737-800) · 11 routes: Atlanta*, Chicago, Denver, Fort Lauderdale, Fort Myers, Las Vegas, Nashville, Orlando, Phoenix, St. Louis, Tampa
- Delta Air Lines DL (A320, M90, ERJ, MD-88, 737-800, A319…) · 8 routes: Atlanta, Cincinnati, Detroit, Minneapolis, New York, Paris, Raleigh-durham*, Salt Lake City
- AirTran Airways FL (737-700, 737-800, 73C, 717) · 7 routes: Atlanta, Chicago*, Denver*, Fort Lauderdale*, Orlando*, Phoenix*, Wichita*
- United Airlines UA (A319, 737-800, 737-900, A320, 757-200, 737-700…) · 6 routes: Chicago, Denver, Houston, San Francisco, Toronto*, Washington*
- Spirit Airlines NK (A320) · 3 routes: Dallas-Fort Worth, Las Vegas, Myrtle Beach
- Air France AF (A320, 737-800, 757-200, M90, 737-800) · 2 routes: Atlanta*, Paris*
- Frontier Airlines F9 (A320) · 2 routes: Cancun, Punta Cana
- Virgin America VX (A319, A320) · 2 routes: Los Angeles, San Francisco
- Aegean Airlines A3 (A330-200) · 1 route: Athens*
- AeroMéxico AM (757, MD-88, M90) · 1 route: Atlanta*
- Air Canada AC (Embraer 175) · 1 route: Toronto
- Alaska Airlines AS (73J, 737-800) · 1 route: Seattle
- Alitalia AZ (737-800, MD-88, M90) · 1 route: Atlanta*
- British Airways BA (767, 777) · 1 route: London
- Finnair AY (767, 777) · 1 route: London
- Iberia Airlines IB (767, 777) · 1 route: London*
- JetBlue Airways B6 (Embraer 190) · 1 route: Boston
- KLM Royal Dutch Airlines KL (A320, M90, MD-88, 737-800) · 1 route: Atlanta*
- Lufthansa Cargo LH (A340-300) · 1 route: Frankfurt
- Qatar Airways QR (777-200LR) · 1 route: Doha
- TAP Portugal TP (757-200) · 1 route: Lisbon*
Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.
Northeast Philadelphia Airport (PNE) 12 mi to the centre
Philadelphia, PA, US — Indoor waiting areas, but some gates board by bus or on foot across the apron — plan for the weather on the day.
Wings Field (BBX) 14 mi to the centre
Philadelphia, PA, US — Indoor waiting area, but you walk out to the aircraft to board — bring an umbrella or a coat if the forecast is poor.
South Jersey Regional Airport (LLY) 17 mi to the centre
Lumberton, NJ, US — Indoor waiting area, but you walk out to the aircraft to board — bring an umbrella or a coat if the forecast is poor.
Hollingshead Airport 12 mi to the centre
Clarksboro, NJ, US
Regional airports
Further out, but often the cheapest way in — the airports the low-cost carriers use. Each links to its own town's guide for getting from there into the city.
Trenton-Mercer Airport (TTN) 29 mi to the centre
Ewing Township, NJ, US — Indoor waiting areas, but some gates board by bus or on foot across the apron — plan for the weather on the day. ✈ 1 airline (Frontier Airlines) · direct flights to 14 destinations incl. Atlanta, Charlotte, Chicago, Cincinnati, Cleveland… (OpenFlights route data).
✈ Feeder airport · 29 mi from Philadelphia · Frontier Airlines · Getting around Trenton, New Jersey →
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 1 airline, 14 direct destinations
- Frontier Airlines F9 (A319) · 14 routes: Atlanta, Charlotte, Chicago, Cincinnati, Cleveland, Detroit, Fort Lauderdale, Fort Myers, Indianapolis, Nashville, Orlando, Raleigh-durham, St. Augustine Airport, Tampa
Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.
Lehigh Valley International Airport (ABE) 50 mi to the centre
Allentown/Bethlehem, PA, US — Indoor waiting areas, but some gates board by bus or on foot across the apron — plan for the weather on the day. ✈ 7 airlines (Allegiant Air, American Airlines, Delta Air Lines, US Airways…) · direct flights to 9 destinations incl. Atlanta, Charlotte, Philadelphia, Chicago, Detroit… (OpenFlights route data).
✈ Feeder airport · 50 mi from Philadelphia · Allegiant Air, American Airlines, Delta Air Lines · Getting around Allentown, Pennsylvania →
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 7 airlines, 9 direct destinations
- Allegiant Air G4 (MD-80, A320) · 4 routes: Myrtle Beach, Punta Gorda, Sanford, St. Petersburg
- American Airlines AA (CRJ-900, CRJ-700, CRJ, Dash 8-300) · 2 routes: Charlotte*, Philadelphia
- Delta Air Lines DL (717, CRJ) · 2 routes: Atlanta, Detroit*
- US Airways US (CRJ, CRJ-900, CRJ-700, DH8) · 2 routes: Charlotte*, Philadelphia*
- Air France AF (CRJ) · 1 route: Atlanta*
- KLM Royal Dutch Airlines KL (CRJ) · 1 route: Atlanta*
- United Airlines UA (ERJ-145, ERJ) · 1 route: Chicago*
Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.
Atlantic City International Airport (ACY) 46 mi to the centre
01 Atlantic City International Airport, Egg Harbor Township, NJ 08234 — Indoor waiting areas, but some gates board by bus or on foot across the apron — plan for the weather on the day. ✈ 2 airlines (Spirit Airlines, United Airlines) · direct flights to 9 destinations incl. Chicago, Boston, Detroit, Fort Lauderdale, Fort Myers… (OpenFlights route data).
✈ Feeder airport · 47 mi from Philadelphia · Spirit Airlines, United Airlines · Getting around Atlantic City, New Jersey →
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 2 airlines, 9 direct destinations
- Spirit Airlines NK (A319, A320) · 8 routes: Boston, Chicago, Detroit, Fort Lauderdale, Fort Myers, Myrtle Beach, Orlando, Tampa
- United Airlines UA (ERJ) · 2 routes: Chicago*, Houston*
Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.
Getting there by ferry
Penn’s Landing
Ferry terminal · 1.4 mi from the centre
Camden
Ferry terminal · 1.8 mi from the centre
Philadelphia - Camden
Ferry route · Delaware River Waterfront Corporation
Local transit
Southeastern Pennsylvania Transportation Authority
Rail · Philadelphia, Pennsylvania · Schedules & GTFS data (official feed)
New Jersey Transit (NJ Transit)
Bus · New Jersey · Schedules & GTFS data (official feed)
Trains & rail
Conrail Shared Assets Operations
Rail operator
SEPTA Regional Rail
Rail operator
Amtrak
National rail
Coaches & shuttles
Greyhound ← New York (Manhattan), NY
Two hours between Port Authority and Philadelphia. · New York (Manhattan), NY guide →
Jefferson Lines
Intercity coach
MegaBus
Intercity coach
Trailways
Intercity coach
Private aviation
On-demand charter, jet cards and the semi-private scheduled carriers that serve this city.
Jet Linx
Jet card, management · Managed fleet across US bases · Locally based jet card and aircraft management with private terminals in ~20 US cities.
Blade
Helicopter, by-the-seat · Helicopters, seaplanes, jets via partners · By-the-seat helicopters Manhattan–JFK/Newark and the Hamptons; jet charter through partners.
Wheels Up
Membership charter · King Air 350i, Citation, Hawker, Global · US membership and on-demand charter; Delta Air Lines is a major shareholder.
Aero
Semi-private scheduled · Embraer 135 (16 seats) · First-class-only scheduled flights from Van Nuys to Aspen, Sun Valley, Cabo and Europe in summer.
Clay Lacy Aviation
Charter, management, FBO · Managed fleet, light to ultra-long-range · Charter, management and FBOs at Van Nuys and Orange County; the original Hollywood jet operator.
Living Here
Getting about
- SEPTA runs the two subway lines (Broad Street and Market–Frankford, being renamed the B and L), trolleys in West Philly, buses, and Regional Rail to the suburbs; pay with a SEPTA Key card or contactless tap. It is old and underfunded but covers the city properly.
- The Airport Line from 30th Street and Center City stations takes about 25 minutes to PHL, south-west of the city. 30th Street Station has Amtrak — New York in about 75 minutes, Washington in two hours — and the Northeast Regional is the sane way to reach either.
- Center City is flat and walkable end to end; Indego bike share is dense there and along the river trails, and the Schuylkill Banks boardwalk is the pleasant route west.
- A car is a nuisance downtown — parking is expensive and the Philadelphia Parking Authority is a byword — and the Schuylkill Expressway (I-76) and I-95 are the roads everyone complains about.
Health
- 'Eds and meds' is the city's economy: Penn Medicine's HUP and Presbyterian, Jefferson, Temple and Penn's Pennsylvania Hospital (the nation's first, from 1751) are all here, and the Children's Hospital of Philadelphia is among the world's best.
- Dial 911. CVS, Rite Aid and Walgreens are the pharmacies; urgent-care clinics take walk-ins across Center City.
- Visitors need travel insurance — American hospital bills are large. The summer humidity is draining and the winters bring ice; both are ordinary East Coast weather.
- Kensington's open-air drug market is a public-health emergency the city is still working through; it is a few blocks, not the neighbourhood, but visitors should know where it is.
Work & study
- The University of Pennsylvania is the Ivy League anchor and the city's largest private employer; Drexel, Temple, Jefferson, Saint Joseph's, La Salle and the art schools (PAFA, University of the Arts' closure in 2024 notwithstanding) give it one of the largest student populations in the country.
- Healthcare and higher education dominate, then pharmaceuticals and the cell-and-gene-therapy cluster, finance and insurance, Comcast (headquartered in the two tallest towers), the Navy Yard's offices and the port.
- The city wage tax — around 3.75% for residents, a little less for commuters — comes on top of state and federal income tax; it is the reason many employers sit just over the city line.
- It is a union town with a long memory; the building trades and the transit workers have real power, and strikes are part of the calendar.
Money & manners
- US dollars; cards everywhere, though cash-only corner shops and BYOBs survive. Tip 20% in restaurants; sales tax is 8% in the city (6% state plus 2%), added at the register, with most clothing and groceries exempt.
- Philadelphians are direct, unimpressed and warm underneath; sarcasm is affection, 'jawn' means anything, and the fastest way to be accepted is to have an opinion about the Eagles.
- BYOB is a real institution — many of the best restaurants have no liquor licence, and Pennsylvania's state-run wine and spirits shops are where you buy the bottle. Wawa is the convenience store and a point of civic pride.
- Summers are hot and humid, winters grey with a few snowstorms; spring and autumn are the seasons for the Parkway and the parks. New Year's Day belongs to the Mummers, and the city stops for a championship parade.