Boston, Massachusetts
The oldest big city in America, and still the smartest room in the country
Boston is compact, brainy, sports-mad and expensive, a colonial town that became the college capital of the world. It punches far above its size and knows it.
Puritans founded Boston in 1630 on the Shawmut peninsula, and for a century and a half it was the largest and most argumentative town in British America — the Massacre, the Tea Party and the shots at Lexington and Concord were Boston's doing. It lost the size race to New York and Philadelphia early but kept the ideas: abolition, public schools, Harvard and later MIT across the river, and the Irish immigration of the 1840s that made the city Catholic, Democratic and clannish. The Back Bay was filled in from the 1850s, the Kennedys came out of it, the busing crisis of the 1970s scarred it, and the Big Dig — the most expensive highway project in American history, finished in 2007 — buried the elevated Central Artery and gave downtown back its waterfront.
It is small enough to walk across, and the districts are old and distinct. Downtown, the Common and Beacon Hill's brick and gaslight are the colonial core; the North End, across the Greenway, is Italian and the oldest residential quarter; the Seaport is the new glass district on the harbour. The Back Bay's brownstones and Newbury Street run west to Fenway and the museums; the South End is the Victorian, restaurant-heavy neighbourhood south of that. Across the Charles, Cambridge is Harvard and MIT, and Somerville beyond is where the graduate students live. South Boston, Dorchester, Roxbury and Jamaica Plain are the Irish, Black, Cape Verdean and Latino neighbourhoods of the city proper; Brookline and Newton are the suburbs that are really part of it. The whole thing fits inside the ring of Route 128.
Sport is the civic identity, and the four teams — Red Sox at Fenway, Celtics and Bruins at the Garden, Patriots out in Foxborough — have won enough this century to make the city insufferable about it. The Marathon in April is the one day everyone agrees on. The accent is real, the driving is worse, and the manners are direct in a way that reads as rude in the Midwest and as normal in Britain. The culture leans institutional — the MFA, the Gardner, the Symphony and the Pops — and the food has moved on from chowder and baked beans to a strong seafood, Italian and Portuguese base with Dorchester's Vietnamese and Somerville's Brazilians added. It is a bar town more than a nightlife town; last orders come early.
The hard parts are cost and weather. Housing is among the dearest in the country, the rental market turns over on 1 September in a single chaotic day, and the winter brings a nor'easter or two that shuts the city. The T is the oldest subway in America and has been managed like it; slow zones and shutdowns are a running civic complaint. The politics are Democratic to the point of one-party rule, and the old racial divisions have not gone. What it offers is a walkable, historic, seriously intelligent city with the ocean at the end of the street, the best hospitals in the world, a real four-season year, and Cape Cod, Maine and the White Mountains within a couple of hours.
Where People Live
Beacon Hill & Downtown
The State House dome, the gaslit brick lanes of Beacon Hill, the Common and the Public Garden, and the Freedom Trail's red line through the old town to Faneuil Hall and Quincy Market.
The North End & the Waterfront
The Italian quarter — Hanover Street's restaurants and pastry queues, Paul Revere's house, the Old North Church — and the harbour walk past Long Wharf to the aquarium and the ferries.
Back Bay & Fenway
Newbury Street's shops, the brownstone grid, Copley Square and the Public Library, the Prudential and Hancock towers, then Fenway Park, the MFA and the Gardner museum. Marathon Monday ends here.
The South End
Victorian bow-fronts, the SoWa art and market district, and the city's best run of restaurants; long the gay neighbourhood and still the most stylish.
The Seaport
The glass district built on old parking lots across the Fort Point Channel: the ICA, the convention centre, the harbour-side restaurants and the tech offices. New, expensive and still deciding what it is.
Cambridge & Somerville
Harvard Square's bookshops and Harvard Yard, MIT's campus along the river, Kendall Square's biotech, and Somerville's Davis and Union squares where the students, musicians and post-docs live.
South Boston & Dorchester
Southie's Irish bars, Castle Island and the harbour beaches, then Dorchester — the biggest neighbourhood, Vietnamese along Dot Ave, the JFK Library on the point, and triple-deckers everywhere.
Jamaica Plain & Brookline
JP's Jamaica Pond, the Arnold Arboretum, Centre Street's cafés and a progressive, family, Latino mix; Brookline next door is a separate town with Coolidge Corner and the best schools.
Must-see attractions
Where to stay
Eat & drink
Banners Kitchen & Tap
Restaurant
Contessa Ristorante, Boston
Restaurant
The Greatest Bar
Bar — 262 Friend Street, Boston, MA
Restaurants & places to go
ICON Nightclub
. ICON blends the appeal of a high-energy nightclub and an exclusive lounge; redefining nightlife in Boston. · iconnightclub.com
Bova's Bakery
bakery, bakeries, pastries, pastry · 134 Salem Street, Boston, MA 02113 · bovabakeryboston.net
Hava Nightclub & Lounge
nightclubs, lounges, Cure Lounge · 246 Tremont Street, Boston, MA 02116 · havaboston.com
Antonio's Cucino Italiano
pizza restaurants · antoniosbeaconhill.com
Centerfolds Boston
boston stripclubs · centerfoldsboston.com
Improv Asylum
comedy clubs · improvasylum.com
Quincy Market
shopping markets, grocery stores, groceries · 206 S Market St, Boston, MA 02109 · quincy-market.com
Royale
boston nightclubs · royaleboston.com
Vincent's Nightclub
6 Billings Street, Randolph, MA 02368 · vincentsnightclub.com
Wally's Cafe
jazz clubs · wallyscafe.com
Alden & Harlow
fine dining restaurants
Craigie on Main
fine dining restaurants
L'Espalier
fine dining restaurants
Oleana
fine dining restaurants
Airports
Boston Logan International Airport (BOS) 3.2 mi to the centre
Boston, MA, US — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 34 airlines (JetBlue Airways, Delta Air Lines, American Airlines, United Airlines…) · direct flights to 103 destinations incl. London, Atlanta, Los Angeles, Cancun, Chicago… (OpenFlights route data).
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 34 airlines, 103 direct destinations
- JetBlue Airways B6 (A320, Embraer 190, 777-200LR) · 46 routes: Austin, Baltimore, Buffalo, Cancun, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas-Fort Worth, Denver, Detroit, Dubai, Fort Lauderdale, Fort Myers, Houston, Jacksonville, Las Vegas, Long Beach, Los Angeles, Nassau, New Orleans, New York, Newark, Oranjestad, Orlando, Philadelphia, Philipsburg, Phoenix, Pittsburgh, Portland, Providenciales, Punta Cana, Raleigh-durham, Richmond, San Diego, San Francisco, San Jose, San Juan, Santiago, Santo Domingo, Savannah … +6 more
- Delta Air Lines DL (A320, 737-800, 737-800, 757, Embraer 175, A319…) · 25 routes: Amsterdam, Atlanta, Bermuda, Cancun, Charleston*, Cincinnati, Columbus, Detroit, Indianapolis*, Jacksonville*, Las Vegas, London, Los Angeles, Minneapolis, Myrtle Beach*, Nassau*, New York, New York*, Orlando, Paris, Providenciales, Raleigh-durham, Richmond*, Rome*, Salt Lake City
- American Airlines AA (A319, 737-800, CRJ, Embraer 190, A320, A321…) · 23 routes: Buffalo*, Cancun, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas-Fort Worth, Harrisburg, London*, Los Angeles, Madrid, Miami, New York, New York, Philadelphia, Phoenix, Pittsburgh*, Portland*, Richmond*, Rochester*, San Diego*, Seattle*, Syracuse, Tokyo, Washington
- United Airlines UA (737-800, 737-900, 737-700, A320, 757-200, A319…) · 17 routes: Chicago, Cleveland, Denver, Dublin*, Frankfurt*, Halifax*, Houston, Los Angeles, Montreal*, Munich*, Newark, Ottawa*, Panama City, San Francisco, Toronto*, Washington, Zurich*
- US Airways US (A319, 737-800, CRJ, Embraer 190, A320, A321…) · 17 routes: Buffalo*, Cancun, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas-Fort Worth, Harrisburg*, Los Angeles, Miami, New York, New York, Philadelphia, Phoenix, Pittsburgh*, Richmond*, Rochester*, Syracuse*, Washington
- Cape Air 9K (CNA) · 11 routes: Albany, Augusta, Bar Harbor, Barnstable, Lebanon, Nantucket, Provincetown, Rockland, Rutland, Saranac Lake, Vineyard Haven MA
- Southwest Airlines WN (737-700, 737-300, 73C, 717) · 11 routes: Akron*, Atlanta, Baltimore, Chicago, Denver, Houston, Kansas City, Milwaukee, Nashville, Orlando, St. Louis
- Alaska Airlines AS (Saab 340, 737-800, 737-800, 757, 73J) · 7 routes: Islip, Los Angeles*, Plattsburgh*, Portland, Presque Isle, San Diego, Seattle
- AirTran Airways FL (717, 737-700) · 5 routes: Akron, Atlanta, Baltimore*, Chicago*, Orlando
- Spirit Airlines NK (A319, A320) · 5 routes: Atlantic City, Chicago, Dallas-Fort Worth, Fort Lauderdale, Myrtle Beach
- Air Canada AC (CRJ, Dash 8-300, Dash 8-100, Embraer 190, Embraer 175) · 4 routes: Halifax*, Montreal*, Ottawa*, Toronto
- Air France AF (747-400, 757, 767-400, M90, MD-88) · 3 routes: Atlanta*, London*, Paris
- KLM Royal Dutch Airlines KL (330, 757, 767, M90, MD-88) · 3 routes: Amsterdam*, Atlanta*, London*
- Peninsula Airways KS (Saab 340) · 3 routes: Islip, Plattsburgh, Presque Isle
- Aer Lingus EI (330, A330-200, 757) · 2 routes: Dublin, Shannon
- AeroMéxico AM (757, A320, M90, MD-88) · 2 routes: Atlanta*, Cancun*
- Alitalia AZ (330, A330-200, 747-400) · 2 routes: Paris*, Rome
- British Airways BA (A330-300, 747-400, 777) · 2 routes: London, Madrid*
- Finnair AY (A330-300, 747-400, 777) · 2 routes: London, Madrid
- Iberia Airlines IB (A330-300, 747-400, 777) · 2 routes: London*, Madrid
- Japan Airlines Domestic JL (787-8, Embraer 190) · 2 routes: New Orleans*, Tokyo
- Lufthansa Cargo LH (A330-300, A340-600, 747-400) · 2 routes: Frankfurt, Munich
- SATA International S4 (313) · 2 routes: Lisbon, Ponta Delgada
- TAP Portugal TP (313) · 2 routes: Lisbon*, Ponta Delgada*
- Virgin America VX (A320, A319) · 2 routes: Los Angeles, San Francisco
- Virgin Atlantic Airways VS (A319, A320, A330-300, 757, 767-400, M90…) · 2 routes: Atlanta*, London
- Copa Airlines CM (737-700) · 1 route: Panama City
- Emirates EK (777-200LR) · 1 route: Dubai
- Icelandair FI (75W) · 1 route: Keflavik
- Porter Airlines PD (Dash 8-400) · 1 route: Toronto
- Sun Country Airlines SY (737-800, 737-700) · 1 route: Minneapolis
- Swiss International Air Lines LX (A330-300) · 1 route: Zurich
- TACV VR (757-200) · 1 route: Praia, Santiago Island
- Transaero Airlines UN (A330-300) · 1 route: London*
Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.
Norwood Memorial Airport (OWD) 12 mi to the centre
Norwood, MA, US — Indoor waiting areas, but some gates board by bus or on foot across the apron — plan for the weather on the day.
Laurence G Hanscom Field (BED) 14 mi to the centre
Bedford, MA, US — Indoor waiting areas, but some gates board by bus or on foot across the apron — plan for the weather on the day.
Beverly Regional Airport (BVY) 18 mi to the centre
Beverly / Danvers, MA, US — Indoor waiting areas, but some gates board by bus or on foot across the apron — plan for the weather on the day.
Minute Man Air Field (MMN) 24 mi to the centre
Stow, MA, US — Indoor waiting area, but you walk out to the aircraft to board — bring an umbrella or a coat if the forecast is poor.
Regional airports
Further out, but often the cheapest way in — the airports the low-cost carriers use. Each links to its own town's guide for getting from there into the city.
T.F. Green Airport (PVD) 47 mi to the centre
2000 Post Rd, Warwick, RI 02886 — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 9 airlines (AirTran Airways, Southwest Airlines, American Airlines, United Airlines…) · direct flights to 17 destinations incl. Atlanta, Orlando, Baltimore, Charlotte, Chicago… (OpenFlights route data).
✈ Feeder airport · 47 mi from Boston · AirTran Airways, Southwest Airlines, American Airlines · Getting around Providence, Rhode Island →
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 9 airlines, 17 direct destinations
- AirTran Airways FL (737-700, 737-800, 737-300, 737-800, 73C) · 6 routes: Baltimore*, Chicago*, Las Vegas*, Orlando, Salt Lake City*, San Diego*
- Southwest Airlines WN (737-700, 737-800, 737-800, 737-300, 73C) · 6 routes: Baltimore, Chicago, Fort Lauderdale, Fort Myers, Orlando, Tampa
- American Airlines AA (A319, A320, A321, Embraer 190, Dash 8-300, Embraer 175…) · 3 routes: Charlotte, Philadelphia, Washington*
- United Airlines UA (Dash 8-200, A320, Dash 8-300, ERJ, Dash 8-400, CRJ-700…) · 3 routes: Chicago, Newark*, Washington*
- US Airways US (A319, A320, A321, Embraer 190, Embraer 175, CRJ…) · 3 routes: Charlotte, Philadelphia, Washington*
- Delta Air Lines DL (A319, MD-88) · 2 routes: Atlanta, Detroit
- JetBlue Airways B6 (A320) · 2 routes: Fort Lauderdale, Orlando
- Air France AF (MD-88) · 1 route: Atlanta*
- KLM Royal Dutch Airlines KL (MD-88) · 1 route: Atlanta*
Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.
Manchester-Boston Regional Airport (MHT) 45 mi to the centre
1 Airport Rd, Manchester, NH 03103 — Indoor waiting areas, but some gates board by bus or on foot across the apron — plan for the weather on the day. ✈ 7 airlines (AirTran Airways, Southwest Airlines, American Airlines, Delta Air Lines…) · direct flights to 13 destinations incl. Atlanta, Baltimore, Charlotte, Chicago, Philadelphia… (OpenFlights route data).
✈ Feeder airport · 45 mi from Boston · AirTran Airways, Southwest Airlines, American Airlines · Getting around Manchester, NH →
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 7 airlines, 13 direct destinations
- AirTran Airways FL (737-800, 737-700) · 4 routes: Baltimore*, Chicago*, Minneapolis*, Tampa*
- Southwest Airlines WN (737-700, 737-800, 737-800, 737-300, 73C) · 4 routes: Baltimore, Chicago, Orlando, Tampa
- American Airlines AA (CRJ, CRJ-900, Embraer 170, Embraer 175) · 3 routes: Charlotte*, Philadelphia*, Washington
- Delta Air Lines DL (ERJ, A320) · 3 routes: Atlanta, Detroit, New York
- US Airways US (CRJ, CRJ-900) · 3 routes: Charlotte*, Philadelphia, Washington
- United Airlines UA (ERJ, CRJ-700, Dash 8-300, Dash 8-200) · 2 routes: Chicago*, Newark*
- KLM Royal Dutch Airlines KL (A320) · 1 route: Atlanta*
Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.
Getting there by ferry
Rowes Wharf Ferry Terminal
Ferry terminal · 1.1 mi from the centre
Courthouse Dock
Ferry terminal · 1.1 mi from the centre
Long Wharf (South) Ferry Terminal
Ferry terminal · 1.2 mi from the centre · MBTA
Central Wharf (South) Ferry Terminal
Ferry terminal · 1.2 mi from the centre
Fan Pier Ferry Terminal
Ferry terminal · 1.2 mi from the centre
World Trade Center (West) Ferry Terminal
Ferry terminal · 1.3 mi from the centre
Winthrop/Quincy Ferry (Fan Pier - Central Wharf (South)
Ferry route · MBTA
F10: Harbor Loop
Ferry route · MBTA
East Boston - Seaport
Ferry route
East Boston
Ferry route · Massachusetts Convention Center Authority (MCCA)
North Station - Seaport
Ferry route
F10: Harbor Loop (Weekday Mornings)
Ferry route · MBTA
F10: Harbor Loop (Weekday Evening)
Ferry route · MBTA
North Station - Pier 10
Ferry route
Local transit
Massachusetts Bay Transportation Authority (MBTA)
Bus Train · Schedules & route data (GTFS) · Boston, Massachusetts
The T
Subway, bus, commuter rai · Subway, buses, commuter rail and ferries. · Fares: CharlieCard or contactless · Airport: Silver Line SL1 free from Logan to South Station
Yankee Line
Public transit · Schedules & GTFS data
Bloom Bus
Public transit · Schedules & GTFS data
Blue Apple Bus Company
Bus · Mansfield, Massachusetts · Schedules & GTFS data
Boston Harbor Islands Ferry
Public transit · Schedules & GTFS data
Trains & rail
MBTA Commuter Rail
Rail operator
Amtrak
National rail
Coaches & shuttles
Peter Pan Bus Lines → New York (Manhattan), NY
South Station to Port Authority, about four and a half hours. · New York (Manhattan), NY guide →
Megabus ← New York (Manhattan), NY
Frequent low-fare coaches, about four and a half hours. · New York (Manhattan), NY guide →
Peter Pan Bus Lines ← New York (Manhattan), NY
Port Authority to South Station, hourly at peak. · New York (Manhattan), NY guide →
DATTCO Motorcoach
Coach / shuttle operator
Greyhound
Intercity coach
Jefferson Lines
Intercity coach
Trailways
Intercity coach
Private aviation
On-demand charter, jet cards and the semi-private scheduled carriers that serve this city.
Magellan Jets
Jet card, charter · Partner fleet · Jet cards and on-demand charter from Boston.
Sentient Jet
Jet card · Partner fleet, light to heavy · One of the first jet-card programmes; guaranteed availability on partner aircraft.
Aero
Semi-private scheduled · Embraer 135 (16 seats) · First-class-only scheduled flights from Van Nuys to Aspen, Sun Valley, Cabo and Europe in summer.
Airshare
Fractional, jet card · Embraer Phenom 300, Challenger 350 · Fractional and jet card programme centred on the US Midwest and East.
Blade
Helicopter, by-the-seat · Helicopters, seaplanes, jets via partners · By-the-seat helicopters Manhattan–JFK/Newark and the Hamptons; jet charter through partners.
Tours & experiences
Boston Segway Tours
Bike Tour
Old Town Trolley Tours of Boston
Bus Tour
Boston Duck Tours Corporate Office
Sightseeing
Boston Duck Tours
Bus Tour
Living Here
Getting about
- The MBTA — the T — runs the Red, Orange, Blue and Green subway lines, the Silver Line buses, a large bus network and the commuter rail out to the suburbs and Providence; a CharlieCard or a contactless tap covers subway and bus. The Green Line is a streetcar that thinks it is a subway.
- Logan airport is across the harbour, about fifteen minutes from downtown on the Blue Line or the free Silver Line SL1 to South Station. Amtrak runs from South Station to New York in under four hours on the Acela; the Downeaster leaves North Station for Maine.
- The core is flat and walkable, and Bluebikes are everywhere. The streets follow colonial cowpaths and the drivers are famous; parking is scarce and resident-only in most neighbourhoods.
- Ferries cross the harbour to Charlestown, Hingham and, in summer, Provincetown; the commuter rail reaches Salem, Concord and the North Shore beaches.
Health
- Massachusetts General, Brigham and Women's, Beth Israel Deaconess, Boston Children's and Dana-Farber make the Longwood and MGH districts probably the densest concentration of medical excellence anywhere.
- Dial 911. CVS and Walgreens are on every corner; urgent-care clinics take walk-ins. Massachusetts requires residents to carry health insurance and has near-universal coverage.
- Visitors should carry travel insurance; emergency rooms treat everyone but bill at American rates. Winter falls on ice are the seasonal injury.
Work & study
- Harvard and MIT across the river, then Boston University, Northeastern, Tufts, Boston College, Berklee and dozens more — the metro holds something like thirty-five colleges and a quarter of a million students, who leave in May and return in September.
- Healthcare and biotech dominate — Kendall Square is the densest life-sciences cluster in the world — alongside higher education, finance and asset management (Fidelity, State Street), technology, robotics and a large public sector.
- Salaries are high and so is the state income tax; the cost of housing is the thing every job offer is measured against.
Money & manners
- US dollars; cards everywhere. Tip 20%. Sales tax is 6.25%, with most clothing exempt below a threshold, and restaurant meals carry a tax of around 7%.
- Direct, quick, unsentimental and loyal; small talk is not the custom and the sports are a safe opening. Dunkin' is a civic institution and the coffee order is 'regular', which means cream and sugar.
- Winter runs December to March and is cold, snowy and windy off the harbour; spring arrives late and grudgingly, summer is humid, and September and October are the reason people stay.