San Francisco, California
Seven square miles of hills, fog and reinvention
San Francisco has been a gold-rush port, a bohemian refuge, the capital of the counterculture and the engine room of the internet — always on the same forty-seven square miles at the tip of a peninsula.
A Spanish mission and a fort in 1776, a village of a few hundred in 1847, and then the gold rush: by 1850 it was a city of 25,000 and the port of the American West. The 1906 earthquake and fire destroyed most of it, and the rebuilt city — the Victorian houses that survived, the downtown that did not — is the one you see. The Golden Gate and Bay bridges came in the 1930s, the Beats to North Beach in the 1950s, the hippies to the Haight in 1967, the gay community to the Castro in the 1970s, and the tech industry, in waves, from the 1990s on.
It is a small city, and that is its charm and its problem. The peninsula holds about 800,000 people in neighbourhoods separated by hills steep enough to have their own microclimates — the Mission can be sunny while the Sunset is fogged in, which is why locals carry a layer in August. The walkable core runs from the Ferry Building through downtown, Chinatown and North Beach to the waterfront; the Mission, the Castro and the Haight are a bus or a bike away; and the ocean side, the Richmond and the Sunset, is the quieter, foggier, more residential half that tourists rarely see.
The last decade has been hard on the place in ways that are honestly reported and often exaggerated. The tech boom made it the most expensive city in the country and pushed out much of what made it interesting; the pandemic emptied downtown, and the homelessness and open drug use in the Tenderloin and around Civic Center are real and confronting. But the neighbourhoods are as alive as ever, the food — from the Mission's taquerias to Chinatown's dim sum to the farm-to-table restaurants that invented the genre — is superb, and the natural setting remains the most beautiful of any American city.
Living here is a bargain only in the sense that nothing else offers the same combination: a genuinely urban, walkable, transit-served city with the Pacific at the end of the street and Marin's headlands, Napa's vineyards and the Sierra a drive away. The fog is real, the summer is cold, the rents are savage, and the city is in the middle of deciding what it wants to be next. It has done this before.
Where People Live
North Beach & Chinatown
Side by side below Telegraph Hill: the Italian cafés and Beat bookshops of North Beach, and the oldest and densest Chinatown in America, with the dim sum to prove it.
The Mission
The Latino heart of the city and its best eating — the taquerias, Dolores Park, the murals of Balmy and Clarion alleys, Valencia Street's shops and bars. Sunny when the rest is fogged.
The Castro
The gay capital of the world, with the Castro Theatre, the rainbow crossings and a genuinely neighbourly main street. Twin Peaks' view is a walk uphill.
Haight-Ashbury & Golden Gate Park
The 1967 corner, now vintage shops and Victorians, and the park beyond — the de Young, the Academy of Sciences, the Japanese Tea Garden, and the bison, all the way to the ocean.
Hayes Valley & Civic Center
The opera, the symphony and City Hall's dome; Hayes Valley's boutiques and restaurants rebuilt where a freeway once stood. Beside the Tenderloin, which is the city's hardest edge.
The Marina, Presidio & Golden Gate
The waterfront walk from Fisherman's Wharf past Crissy Field to the bridge, and the Presidio's forest, museums and views. Where the postcards are taken.
Richmond & Sunset
The western, residential, foggy half — Clement Street's Asian restaurants, Ocean Beach, Lands End's trail. Where San Franciscans live and where rents are almost survivable.
Must-see attractions
Ghirardelli Square
900 North Point Street, San Francisco, CA
Golden Gate Bridge
Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, CA 94129
Alcatraz Island
Pier 33 Alcatraz Landing, San Francisco, California
California Golf Club of San Francisco
844 W Orange Ave, South San Francisco, CA 94080
Where to stay
HI San Francisco, Fisherman's Wharf
Building, 240 Fort Mason 11, San Francisco, CA 94123
Eat & drink
Restaurants & places to go
Black Cat San Francisco
live jazz clubs, jazz restauarants, live jazz music, jazz lounges, craft cocktails, cocktail lounges · 400 Eddy St, San Francisco, CA, 94109 · blackcatsf.com
Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. (Pier 39)
Pier 39 seafood restaurants, Pier 39 restaurants, Pier 39 shrimp restaurants, shrimps · bubbagump.com
LUV San Francisco
nightclubs, lounges, VIP bottle service · luv-sf.com
Condor Club
san francisco stripclubs · condorsf.com
Core Club San Francisco
private social clubs, private clubs · thecoreclub.com
Gold Club San Francisco
san francisco stripclubs · goldclubsf.com
Mitchell Brothers O'Farrell Theatre
san francisco stripclubs · ofarrell.com
Penthouse Club SF
san francisco stripclubs · penthousesf.com
Tartine Bakery
600 Guerrero St, San Francisco, CA 94110, USA · tartinebakery.com
Weinstein Gallery
art gallery, art galleries · weinstein.com
Maruya
fine dining restaurants
Airports
San Francisco International Airport (SFO) 10 mi to the centre
San Francisco, CA 94128 — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 42 airlines (United Airlines, Virgin America, Delta Air Lines, American Airlines…) · direct flights to 104 destinations incl. Atlanta, London, Los Angeles, New York, Seoul… (OpenFlights route data).
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 42 airlines, 104 direct destinations
- United Airlines UA (737-800, A319, A320, 737-900, CRJ, EM2…) · 88 routes: Albuquerque*, Arcata CA*, Atlanta, Auckland*, Austin, Bakersfield*, Baltimore, Beijing, Boise*, Boston, Burbank*, Calgary*, Cancun, Chicago, Chico*, Cleveland, Colorado Springs*, Crescent City*, Dallas-Fort Worth, Denver, Edmonton*, Eugene*, Fort Lauderdale, Frankfurt, Fresno*, Guadalajara, Hong Kong, Honolulu, Houston, Indianapolis, Kahului, Kansas City*, Klamath Falls*, Kona, Las Vegas, Lihue, London, Los Angeles, Medford*, Mexico City … +48 more
- Virgin America VX (A320, A319) · 19 routes: Austin, Boston, Cancun, Chicago, Dallas-Fort Worth, Fort Lauderdale, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, New York, Newark, Orlando, Philadelphia, Portland, Puerto Vallarta, San Diego, San Jose Del Cabo, Seattle, Washington, Washington
- Delta Air Lines DL (A320, 734, 737-900, 747-400, 757-300, 757…) · 17 routes: Amsterdam*, Atlanta, Cincinnati, Detroit, Honolulu, London*, Los Angeles*, Mexico City, Minneapolis, New York, Palm Springs*, Paris*, Salt Lake City, Seattle*, Seoul*, Shanghai, Taipei*
- American Airlines AA (737, 737-800, A321, 767-300, A320, 747-400…) · 15 routes: Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas-Fort Worth, Hong Kong*, London*, Los Angeles, Miami, New York, Palm Springs*, Philadelphia, Phoenix, Portland*, Puerto Vallarta*, Seattle*, Tokyo
- US Airways US (737-800, A320, A321, 767-300, 777-300ER, 757…) · 14 routes: Auckland*, Beijing*, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas-Fort Worth, Hong Kong, Los Angeles, Miami, New York, Philadelphia, Phoenix, San Salvador, Seoul, Taipei
- Alaska Airlines AS (734, 737-800, 767-300, 737-900, 757, 737-800…) · 10 routes: Chicago*, Dallas-Fort Worth*, Los Angeles*, Miami*, New York*, Palm Springs, Portland, Puerto Vallarta, San Jose Del Cabo, Seattle
- Southwest Airlines WN (737-700, 73C, 737-300, 737-800) · 9 routes: Atlanta, Chicago, Denver, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Milwaukee, Phoenix, San Diego, Santa Ana
- AeroMéxico AM (737-800, 734, 737, 737-900, 767-300, 73J) · 7 routes: Atlanta*, Del Bajio, Guadalajara, Mexico City, Morelia, Puerto Vallarta*, San Jose Del Cabo*
- Air New Zealand NZ (737-800, 747-400, 777, A319, A320, 777-200) · 7 routes: Atlanta*, Auckland, Frankfurt*, Guadalajara*, London*, Mexico City*, Sydney*
- Air Canada AC (A319, A320, CRJ-700, Embraer 190, CRJ) · 6 routes: Calgary*, Edmonton*, Montreal, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria*
- JetBlue Airways B6 (A320, 777-300ER) · 6 routes: Austin, Boston, Dubai, Fort Lauderdale, Long Beach, New York
- AirTran Airways FL (737-700, 737-700) · 5 routes: Atlanta, Chicago*, Denver*, Milwaukee*, Norfolk*
- KLM Royal Dutch Airlines KL (734, 747, 757-300, 757, 767-300) · 4 routes: Amsterdam, Atlanta*, Honolulu*, Seattle*
- Air France AF (A380, 737-900, 757-300, 757, 767-300) · 3 routes: Atlanta*, Honolulu*, Paris
- Lufthansa Cargo LH (A340-600, A380, 747-400, 777) · 3 routes: Frankfurt, London*, Munich
- Air China CA (747-400, 777-300) · 2 routes: Beijing, Shanghai*
- Air India Limited AI (777-300ER) · 2 routes: Hong Kong*, Seoul*
- Alitalia AZ (A380, 767-300) · 2 routes: Atlanta*, Paris*
- All Nippon Airways NH (777, 787-8, 777-300ER) · 2 routes: Osaka*, Tokyo
- China Airlines CI (737-900, 747-400, 757) · 2 routes: Atlanta*, Taipei
- Hawaiian Airlines HA (A320, A330-200) · 2 routes: Honolulu, Las Vegas*
- Singapore Airlines Cargo SQ (777-300ER) · 2 routes: Hong Kong, Seoul
- Virgin Atlantic Airways VS (737-900, 747-400, 757, 767-300) · 2 routes: Atlanta*, London
- WestJet WS (737-700) · 2 routes: Calgary, Vancouver
- Aer Lingus EI (A330-200) · 1 route: Dublin
- Asiana Airlines OZ (777-200LR) · 1 route: Seoul
- Avianca - Aerovias Nacionales de Colombia AV (A319, A320) · 1 route: San Salvador
- British Airways BA (747-400) · 1 route: London
- Cathay Pacific CX (747-400, 777-300ER) · 1 route: Hong Kong
- China Eastern Airlines MU (A330-200) · 1 route: Shanghai
- Emirates EK (777-300ER) · 1 route: Dubai
- EVA Air BR (777-300ER) · 1 route: Taipei
- Finnair AY (747-400) · 1 route: London
- Frontier Airlines F9 (A319, A320) · 1 route: Denver
- Iberia Airlines IB (747-400) · 1 route: London*
- Japan Airlines Domestic JL (787-8) · 1 route: Tokyo
- Korean Air KE (777-200, 777-300ER) · 1 route: Seoul
- Philippine Airlines PR (747-400) · 1 route: Manila
- Scandinavian Airlines System SK (A340-300) · 1 route: Copenhagen
- Sun Country Airlines SY (737-800, 737-700) · 1 route: Minneapolis
- Swiss International Air Lines LX (A340-300) · 1 route: Zurich
- Transaero Airlines UN (747-400) · 1 route: London*
Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.
Oakland International Airport (OAK) 12 mi to the centre
Oakland, CA, US — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 12 airlines (Southwest Airlines, AirTran Airways, American Airlines, Alaska Airlines…) · direct flights to 34 destinations incl. Honolulu, Kahului, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Phoenix… (OpenFlights route data).
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 12 airlines, 34 direct destinations
- Southwest Airlines WN (737-700, 73C, 737-300, 737-800, 737-800) · 18 routes: Albuquerque, Austin, Boise, Burbank, Chicago, Denver, Houston, Kansas City, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Ontario, Phoenix, Portland, Salt Lake City, San Diego, Santa Ana, Seattle, Spokane
- AirTran Airways FL (737-700, 737-800, 73C) · 7 routes: Chicago*, Columbus*, Denver, Las Vegas*, Los Angeles*, Oklahoma City*, Santa Ana*
- American Airlines AA (737, A319, CRJ-900, Dash 8-400) · 7 routes: Honolulu*, Kahului*, Kona*, Lihue*, Phoenix, Portland*, Seattle*
- Alaska Airlines AS (737-800, 734, Dash 8-400, 737-700) · 6 routes: Honolulu, Kahului, Kona, Lihue, Portland*, Seattle
- Allegiant Air G4 (MD-80, A319) · 4 routes: Bellingham, Eugene, Mesa, Provo
- Spirit Airlines NK (A319, A320) · 3 routes: Chicago, Dallas-Fort Worth, Las Vegas
- Delta Air Lines DL (A319, A320, CRJ-700) · 2 routes: Los Angeles*, Salt Lake City
- Hawaiian Airlines HA (767-300) · 2 routes: Honolulu, Kahului
- JetBlue Airways B6 (A320) · 2 routes: Long Beach, New York
- Norwegian Air Shuttle DY (787-8) · 1 route: Stockholm*
- US Airways US (A319) · 1 route: Phoenix
- Volaris Y4 (A319, A320) · 1 route: Guadalajara
Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.
San Carlos Airport (SQL) 20 mi to the centre
San Carlos, CA, US — Indoor waiting areas, but some gates board by bus or on foot across the apron — plan for the weather on the day.
Half Moon Bay Airport (HAF) 18 mi to the centre
Half Moon Bay, CA, US — Indoor waiting area, but you walk out to the aircraft to board — bring an umbrella or a coat if the forecast is poor.
Hayward Executive Airport (HWD) 19 mi to the centre
Hayward, CA, US — Indoor waiting area, but you walk out to the aircraft to board — bring an umbrella or a coat if the forecast is poor.
Regional airports
Further out, but often the cheapest way in — the airports the low-cost carriers use. Each links to its own town's guide for getting from there into the city.
Norman Y. Mineta San Jose International Airport (SJC) 39 mi to the centre
San Jose, CA, US — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 15 airlines (Southwest Airlines, Alaska Airlines, American Airlines, AirTran Airways…) · direct flights to 29 destinations incl. Los Angeles, Guadalajara, Denver, Kahului, Phoenix… (OpenFlights route data).
✈ Feeder airport · 39 mi from San Francisco · Southwest Airlines, Alaska Airlines, American Airlines · Getting around San Jose, California →
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 15 airlines, 29 direct destinations
- Southwest Airlines WN (737-700, 737-300, 73C, 737-800, 737-800) · 12 routes: Austin, Burbank, Chicago, Denver, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Ontario, Phoenix, Portland, San Diego, Santa Ana, Seattle
- Alaska Airlines AS (737-800, 734, Dash 8-400, 737-900, CRJ, 737-700…) · 11 routes: Boise*, Guadalajara, Honolulu, Kahului, Kona, Lihue, Los Angeles*, Portland, Reno*, San Jose Del Cabo, Seattle
- American Airlines AA (737, A319, A320, 737-800, M83, CRJ…) · 11 routes: Chicago, Dallas-Fort Worth, Guadalajara*, Honolulu*, Kahului*, Kona*, Lihue*, Los Angeles*, Phoenix, Portland*, Seattle*
- AirTran Airways FL (737-700, 73C) · 4 routes: Denver*, Las Vegas*, Los Angeles*, San Diego*
- Delta Air Lines DL (737-800, A320, CRJ-900, CRJ-700) · 4 routes: Atlanta, Los Angeles*, Minneapolis, Salt Lake City
- United Airlines UA (A319, 737-800, A320, 737-900, 757-200, 787-8…) · 4 routes: Denver, Houston, Los Angeles*, Tokyo*
- US Airways US (A319, A320, 737-800, M83, CRJ-700) · 4 routes: Chicago, Dallas-Fort Worth, Los Angeles, Phoenix
- AeroMéxico AM (734, 737-800) · 2 routes: Guadalajara*, San Jose Del Cabo*
- JetBlue Airways B6 (A320) · 2 routes: Boston, New York
- All Nippon Airways NH (787-8) · 1 route: Tokyo
- Hawaiian Airlines HA (767-300) · 1 route: Kahului
- KLM Royal Dutch Airlines KL (737-800) · 1 route: Atlanta*
- Singapore Airlines Cargo SQ (A320) · 1 route: Los Angeles*
- Virgin America VX (A320) · 1 route: Los Angeles
- Volaris Y4 (A320) · 1 route: Guadalajara
Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.
Getting there by ferry
San Francisco Pier 48.5 (Chase Center Ferry Terminal)
Ferry terminal · 2.9 mi from the centre
Oracle Park Ferry Terminal
Ferry terminal · 3 mi from the centre
San Francisco Ferry Building
Ferry terminal · 3.4 mi from the centre
Red & White Fleet
Ferry terminal · 3.5 mi from the centre
Pier 41 Gate 2
Ferry terminal · 3.5 mi from the centre
Pier 41 Gate 1
Ferry terminal · 3.5 mi from the centre
San Francisco Pier 41 - San Francisco Ferry Building
Ferry route · Water Emergency Transportation Authority
San Francisco Bay Ferry: San Francisco Pier 41 => San Francisco Ferry Building
Ferry route · Water Emergency Transportation Authority
San Francisco Bay Ferry: San Francisco Ferry Building => San Francisco Pier 41
Ferry route · Water Emergency Transportation Authority
Alcatraz - Pier 33 Alcatraz Landing
Ferry route · Alcatraz Cruises, LLC
Treasure Island - San Francisco Ferry Building
Ferry route · PROP SF
Treasure Island Ferry: Treasure Island Ferry Terminal => San Francisco Ferry Building
Ferry route · PROP SF
Treasure Island Ferry: San Francisco Ferry Building => Treasure Island Ferry Terminal
Ferry route · PROP SF
Sausalito - San Francisco Ferry Building
Ferry route · Golden Gate Bridge, Highway & Transportation District
Local transit
Muni
Metro, bus, cable car · Muni Metro light rail, buses, streetcars and the cable cars. · Fares: Clipper card or contactless · Airport: BART from SFO to downtown in 30 min
Sonoma County Airport Express
Bus · San Mateo, California · Schedules & GTFS data
Trains & rail
Coaches & shuttles
FlixBus → Los Angeles, California
Seven to eight hours down I-5; the overnight is popular. · Los Angeles, California guide →
Greyhound
Intercity coach
Jefferson Lines
Intercity coach
MegaBus
Intercity coach
Trailways
Intercity coach
Private aviation
On-demand charter, jet cards and the semi-private scheduled carriers that serve this city.
Jet Linx
Jet card, management · Managed fleet across US bases · Locally based jet card and aircraft management with private terminals in ~20 US cities.
Blade
Helicopter, by-the-seat · Helicopters, seaplanes, jets via partners · By-the-seat helicopters Manhattan–JFK/Newark and the Hamptons; jet charter through partners.
Wheels Up
Membership charter · King Air 350i, Citation, Hawker, Global · US membership and on-demand charter; Delta Air Lines is a major shareholder.
Aero
Semi-private scheduled · Embraer 135 (16 seats) · First-class-only scheduled flights from Van Nuys to Aspen, Sun Valley, Cabo and Europe in summer.
Clay Lacy Aviation
Charter, management, FBO · Managed fleet, light to ultra-long-range · Charter, management and FBOs at Van Nuys and Orange County; the original Hollywood jet operator.
Living Here
Getting about
- Muni runs the buses, the light-rail Metro and the historic streetcars and cable cars; a Clipper card or contactless works on all of it, and on BART, the regional metro to the airport, Oakland and Berkeley.
- The city is walkable but hilly — twenty-minute walks can climb three hundred feet. Cycling is good on the flat, better with an electric assist. Rideshare was invented here and is everywhere.
- SFO is 30 minutes by BART; Oakland's airport is an alternative across the Bay. Caltrain runs down the peninsula to Silicon Valley; the ferries to Sausalito, Oakland and Larkspur are transport and sightseeing at once.
- A car is a burden in the city — parking is scarce, break-ins common — but essential for wine country, the coast and Yosemite.
Health
- UCSF is one of the world's leading medical centres; Zuckerberg San Francisco General is the public hospital and trauma centre; Kaiser, Sutter and Stanford (down the peninsula) are the other big systems.
- Dial 911. Pharmacies and urgent care are plentiful. The city pioneered public health responses to HIV and to the fentanyl crisis, and its street services are visible.
- Bring a layer: summer days at 15°C in fog are normal, and the sun comes out in September and October, the real summer.
Work & study
- UCSF (medicine), the University of San Francisco, SF State and the Academy of Art are in the city; Berkeley and Stanford bracket the Bay and define its intellectual life.
- Technology dominates — the city is the northern end of Silicon Valley, with the AI boom of the 2020s concentrated here — alongside finance, biotech in Mission Bay, tourism and a large public sector.
- Salaries are the highest in the country and so is the cost of living; remote work has loosened the grip of the office but not of the rent.
Money & manners
- US dollars; cards everywhere, and the city is close to cashless. Tip 20%, and expect a 'SF mandate' or health surcharge on some restaurant bills — it is legal and disclosed.
- Progressive, informal and outdoorsy; the dress code is a fleece. The sourdough, the Dungeness crab and the burrito are civic property and argued over accordingly.
- Do not leave anything visible in a parked car. Do not call it 'Frisco'. The cable car is a ride, not a commute.