Mexico City is the largest city in North America and one of the great cities of the world, some 22 million people on a drained lakebed at 2,240 metres. It is more beautiful, safer and better fed than its reputation, and harder work than any of its rivals.
The Mexica founded Tenochtitlan on an island in Lake Texcoco in 1325, and by the time Cortés arrived in 1519 it was one of the largest cities on earth, with causeways, aqueducts and a temple precinct whose ruins now sit beside the cathedral. The Spanish razed it in 1521 and built their capital on the rubble, draining the lake over the following centuries — which is why the old churches lean and the centre sinks by centimetres a year. Independence came in 1821, the Americans occupied the city in 1847, the French installed an emperor in the 1860s, and the Revolution of 1910–20 made it the seat of the one-party state that ran Mexico for seventy years. The 1968 Olympics, the 1985 earthquake and the democratic opening of the 1990s shaped the modern city, which has been governed by the left since 1997.
The city is sixteen boroughs (alcaldías), and the metropolitan area spills far into the State of Mexico. The Centro Histórico around the Zócalo — the cathedral, the National Palace, the Templo Mayor — is the core; Paseo de la Reforma runs south-west from it past the Angel of Independence and the glass towers to Chapultepec, the park that holds the castle, the anthropology museum and the zoo. Roma and Condesa, south of Reforma, are the art-deco, tree-lined café neighbourhoods that visitors now think of as the city; Polanco, north of the park, is the money. Coyoacán and San Ángel to the south are colonial villages swallowed by the city, with Frida Kahlo's house and the university campus beyond. Santa Fe is the corporate district on the western edge; the vast east and north — Iztapalapa, Ecatepec — are where most people live and where visitors rarely go.
The food is the best reason to come: tacos al pastor at midnight, tlacoyos from a street griddle, the markets (La Merced, San Juan, Jamaica), cantinas with free botanas, and a fine-dining scene — Pujol, Quintonil — that ranks among the world's best. There are more museums than almost anywhere, from the anthropology museum to the Palacio de Bellas Artes, and the murals of Rivera and Orozco are on public walls. Lucha libre at Arena México on a Friday night and football — Club América and Cruz Azul at the Estadio Azteca, which opened the 2026 World Cup — are the popular passions, and the Diablos Rojos play baseball in a handsome new stadium. Sundays close Reforma to cars, and Day of the Dead at the start of November has become a genuine city-wide spectacle. It is loud, dense and courteous in ways that surprise.
The hard parts are real. The altitude and the air quality (worst in the dry winter) take a week to adjust to; the traffic is among the worst in the world; earthquakes are a fact of life, with a public alarm and drills every 19 September. Crime is concentrated and mostly avoidable — pickpockets on the Metro, and the usual advice about which areas and which taxis — and the central neighbourhoods are safer than most visitors expect. Water shortages, subsidence and the gulf between Polanco and the periphery are the structural problems; rents in Roma and Condesa have risen sharply with remote workers, and locals resent it. What it offers is a capital of extraordinary depth — Aztec, colonial, modernist and contemporary on the same block — with spring-like weather most of the year and prices that remain low by the standard of any comparable city.
The Zócalo, the cathedral, the Templo Mayor, the Palacio de Bellas Artes and the pedestrian Calle Madero: loud and vivid by day, quieter after dark. The city's first and still its grandest square.
Art-nouveau and deco mansions, the cafés and galleries of Álvaro Obregón, mezcalerías and the best mid-range restaurants — and the neighbourhood the remote workers moved into.
Parque México and Parque España, the elliptical Avenida Amsterdam, dog walkers and brunch under the jacarandas. Leafy, expensive and the easiest place in the city to live.
Avenida Masaryk's luxury shops, the Soumaya and Jumex museums, the embassies and the best-known restaurants. Old money and newer money, north of Chapultepec.
The colonial plaza and market, Frida Kahlo's Casa Azul and the Trotsky house, weekend crowds and street food. Villagey, artistic and family territory in the south.
Cobbled streets and the Saturday Bazar Sábado art market, then UNAM's UNESCO-listed campus with its Olympic stadium, murals and cultural centre.
The Reforma office corridor, the gay district around Calle Génova, the Korean restaurants of Florencia and the cocktail bars that spilled over from Roma.
The Moorish kiosk in the Alameda, old Porfirian houses and theatres, and rents that have not yet caught up. The next Roma, say the estate agents, and they may be right.
Restaurant
Av Capitan Carlos León S/N, Peñón de los Baños, Venustiano Carranza, 15620 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 30 airlines (AeroMéxico, Interjet (ABC Aerolineas), Volaris, Aeromar…) · direct flights to 94 destinations incl. Atlanta, Miami, Los Angeles, Chicago, Monterrey… (OpenFlights route data).
Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.
Mexico City, MEX, MX — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather.
Atizapán de Zaragoza, MEX, MX — Indoor waiting area, but you walk out to the aircraft to board — bring an umbrella or a coat if the forecast is poor.
Ferry terminal · 18 km from the centre
Ferry terminal · 18 km from the centre
Metro · Twelve-line metro, one of the largest in the world, plus Metrobús. · Fares: Tarjeta de Movilidad Integrada · Airport: Metro Line 5 at Terminal Aérea
Rail operator
Rail operator
Rail operator
Rail operator
About six and a half hours from the TAPO terminal. · Oaxaca, México guide →
Intercity coach
On-demand charter, jet cards and the semi-private scheduled carriers that serve this city.
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Fractional, jet card · Embraer Praetor, Bombardier Challenger & Global, Gulfstream · Fractional ownership and jet cards in North America and Europe.
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