Ultimate Edition

Los Angeles, California

Published for the basin, the beaches and the hills
US Monday, October 12, 2026 Vol. CCXLV · Est. 1781
Guides › Southern California › Los Angeles, California

Seventy-two suburbs in search of a city

Los Angeles is not a city with a centre but a region with a climate. Learn to think in neighbourhoods and freeway exits, accept the car, and it becomes one of the great places to live in the world.

Los Angeles, California
Los Angeles, California — Wikipedia / Wikimedia Commons · See source page

It was a Spanish pueblo of forty-four settlers in 1781, a Mexican ranch town, and a small American city until three things arrived in a row: the railroad in 1876, the aqueduct that stole the Owens Valley's water in 1913, and the film industry, which came for the light and the cheap land in the 1910s. Oil, aerospace and the port did the rest. The city grew outward rather than up, along streetcar lines and then freeways, into a basin that runs sixty miles from the mountains to the sea, and the result is a metropolis of thirteen million with no single downtown that everyone uses.

The map is the thing to learn. Downtown, long neglected, has revived — Grand Central Market, the Broad, the Arts District's lofts. Hollywood is a neighbourhood, not the industry, which mostly works in Burbank and Culver City. The Westside — Santa Monica, Venice, Beverly Hills, Westwood — is the beach and the money. The Eastside — Silver Lake, Los Feliz, Echo Park, Highland Park — is where the creative class moved when the Westside got expensive. The Valley is north over the hills and is a city in itself. Koreatown, Boyle Heights, Leimert Park, Little Tokyo: the city's real cultures live in its neighbourhoods.

Yes, you need a car, and the traffic is what everyone says. But the Metro has grown — rail now reaches Santa Monica, Long Beach, Pasadena and the airport is being connected — and the neighbourhoods themselves are walkable once you arrive. Angelenos plan their lives around distance and time of day; a meeting across town at five is not a meeting. The reward is the climate: dry, mild, sunny most of the year, with the ocean on one side and mountains you can hike before work on the other.

Food may be the best in the country, and the cheapest of it the best of all: tacos from trucks, Korean barbecue, Thai Town, Little Ethiopia, the strip-mall sushi that critics fly in for. Housing is the great problem — prices and homelessness are both severe — and the wildfires and earthquakes are real. People come for the industry or the weather and stay because the place, for all its sprawl, has more life in it than its critics allow.

Where People Live

The neighbourhoods

Downtown (DTLA)

Revived: the Broad and Disney Hall on Grand Avenue, Grand Central Market, Little Tokyo, the Arts District's restaurants and breweries, and the historic core's theatres. Still rough at the edges.

Hollywood & Los Feliz

The Walk of Fame and the Bowl, then the hills — Griffith Observatory, the Hollywood sign trail — and Los Feliz's village of cafés and old-Hollywood houses below.

Silver Lake & Echo Park

The reservoir, the lake, the hillside stairways and the Eastside's bars, coffee and record shops. The creative neighbourhood of the last twenty years.

Santa Monica & Venice

The pier and the promenade; Venice's canals, boardwalk and Abbot Kinney's shops; and the beach path running between them. The coast Angelenos actually use.

Beverly Hills & West Hollywood

Rodeo Drive, the studios' executives, the Sunset Strip's clubs, and WeHo's gay village and design district. Glossy, walkable in parts.

Koreatown

The densest neighbourhood in the city: 24-hour Korean restaurants, spas and karaoke, and a real urban street life. The best late-night eating in LA.

Pasadena

A separate old city to the north-east — Craftsman houses, the Huntington's gardens, Old Town, and the Rose Bowl. Calm, green and its own place.

Must-see attractions

Where to stay

Hilton Checkers Los Angeles

535 S Grand Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90071

Indoors

Eat & drink

Warwick LA

Restaurant — 6507 W Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles, California

Indoors

Jumbo's Clown Room

Restaurant — 5153 Hollywood Boulevard, Hollywood, CA 90027

Indoors

Keys Los Angeles

Bar — 9039 Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90069

Indoors

House of Cocotte

Bar

Indoors

The Viper Room

Bar — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KQs6PfC5X0

Indoors

Restaurants & places to go

Catch LA

Catch steakhouses, Catch restaurants, Catch steak restaurants · . CATCH + CATCH STEAK NEW YORK | LOS ANGELES | LAS VEGAS | PLAYA Catch NYC + LA | Delivery +… · catchrestaurants.com

Indoors

O'Gara Coach Beverly Hills

exotic cars · . Join the Award Winning #OGaraCoach Club | #MastersOfLuxury 🏆 · 8833 W Olympic Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90211, USA · ogaracoach.com

Indoors

Felix Trattoria

Crostone di Fichi, restaurants, Felix Al Fresco · . Reservations now available on our website. · 1023 Abbott Kinnney Blvd, Venice, CA 90291 · felixla.com

Indoors

BOA Steakhouse, West Hollywood

steakhouses, steak restaurants, hamburgers, seafood restaurants · . Dry aged, medium rare and sexy on the Sunset Strip. #BOASteakhouse | @idgrestaurants Now… · boasteak.com

Indoors

Spearmint Rhino Los Angeles

strip clubs, stripclubs, gentlemens clubs, strippers, exotic dancers · . Los Angeles #1 "Sports Bar" & Grill Home of $3 Steak Tuesdays & CALIENTE CAGE RAGE… · spearmintrhino.com

Indoors

the 101 Coffee Shop

coffee shops, comedy museums · <p class="ProfileHeaderCard-bio u-dir" dir="ltr">Retro diner fare with a SoCal twist from the guys behind <a href="/littledoms"… · 101coffeeshop.com

Indoors

The Hummingbird Nest

weddings, private events · . Private event venue in the Santa Susana Mountains. Our property offers multiple breathtaking locations for all types of events!… · hummingbirdnestranch.com

Indoors

Pacifique Restaurant

seafood restaurants · pacifiquela.com

Indoors

Crazy Girls Los Angeles

stripclubs, strip clubs, gentlemens clubs · https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZqkEC3VOZR4 · crazygirlshw.com

Indoors

Canter's on Fairfax

Jewish delicatessens, Jewish delis, bakery, Kibitz rooms · 419 North Fairfax Avenue, Los Angeles, California · cantersdeli.com

Indoors

Craig's

fine dining restaurants, pork chops · 8826 Melrose Ave, West Hollywood, CA 90069 · craigs.la

Indoors

Dan Tana's

Italian restaurants, Italian cuisines · 9071 Santa Monica Boulevard, West Hollywood, CA 90069 · dantanasrestaurant.com

Indoors

The Donut Man

peach donuts, peach doughnuts, strawberry donuts, strawberry doughnuts · thedonutmanca.com

Indoors

Fixins Los Angeles

African restaurants, African American restaurants, soul food restaurants, soul restaurants · 800 W. Olympic Blvd, Suite A150, Los Angeles, CA 90015 · fixinssoulkitchen.com

Indoors

Joe's Pizza

pizza restaurants, pizzas · 8539 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, CA 90069 · joespizza.it

Indoors

Mastro's Ocean Club, Downtown LA

Italian restaurants · 1200 S. Figueroa Street, Los Angeles, CA 90015 · mastrosrestaurants.com

Indoors

Sespe Creek

cannabis retailers, cannabis dispensary, cannabis delivery services · 408 Bryant Circle, Unit C, Ojai, CA 93023 · sespe.org

Indoors

Takami Sushi + Robata

Elevate Lounge LA, Elevate LA, luxury sushi restaurants, luxury sushi bars, luxury restaurants · 811 Wilshire Boulevard, Suite 2100, Los Angeles, CA 90017 · takamisushi.com

Indoors

Academy LA (Create Nightclub)

los angeles Create Nightclub, nightclubs · academy.la

Indoors

ALFRED

coffee shops · alfred.la

Indoors

Avalon Hollywood & Bardot

cocktail lounges, cocktails, nightclubs, party rooms · avalonhollywood.com

Indoors

Aztec Hotel, Route 66

unique hotels, heritage hotels · nps.gov

Indoors

Beverly Hills Rent-A-Car

exotic cars · bhrentacar.com

Indoors

Bootsy Bellows

cocktail lounges, cocktails, nightclubs, party rooms · hwoodgroup.com

Indoors

Catch Steak LA

Catch steakhouses, Catch restaurants, Catch steak restaurants · catchrestaurants.com

Indoors

Cecconi’s West Hollywood

8764 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, 90069 · cecconiswesthollywood.com

Indoors

Club Ed Movie Set

42848 150th St E, Lancaster, CA 93535, USA · avlocations.com

Indoors

Dames n' Games LA

los angeles topless sportsbars, stripclubs · damesngames.net

Indoors

Dames n' Games Van Nuys

los angeles topless sportsbars, stripclubs · damesngames.net

Indoors

DASH West Hollywood

shopping boutiques · 8420 Melrose Avenue, West Hollywood, CA 90069 · shopdashonline.com

Indoors

Doheny Room

cocktail lounges, cocktails, nightclubs, party rooms · sbe.com

Indoors

El Cid, Los Angeles

restaurants, comedy clubs, Flamenco Clubs, event venues, Alexis Fawx · elcidsunset.com

Indoors

Elevate Lounge

cocktail lounges, cocktails, nightclubs, party rooms · elevatelounge.com

Indoors

Exchange LA

cocktail lounges, cocktails, nightclubs, party rooms · exchangela.com

Indoors

The Fonda Theatre

theatres, theaters · fondatheatre.com

Indoors

Il Ristorante di Giorgio Baldi

Italian restaurants · giorgio-baldi.com

Indoors

Hyde Sunset Kitchen + Cocktails

cocktail lounges, cocktails, nightclubs, party rooms · sbe.com

Indoors

Largo at the Coronet

comedy clubs · largo-la.com

Indoors

Locanda Veneta

Italian restaurants · locandaveneta.net

Indoors

Nightingale Plaza, LA

Nightingale Plaza LA, cocktail lounges, cocktails, nightclubs, party rooms · sbe.com

Indoors

Peppone

Italian restaurants · peppone.com

Indoors

Red Tie Gentlemen's Club

15832 Stagg St, Van Nuys, CA, 91406 · redtiegentlemensclub.com

Indoors

Salt & Straw

ice cream parlors, ice cream shops, ice cream parlours · 8949 Santa Monica Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90069 · saltandstraw.com

Indoors

Sky Zone Trampoline Park, Van Nuys

trampolines, trampoline parks · skyzone.com

Indoors

Spearmint Rhino Van Nuys

strip clubs, stripclubs, gentlemens clubs, strippers, exotic dancers · spearmintrhino.com

Indoors

The Body Shop

stripclubs, strip clubs, strippers, exotic dancers · thesunsetstrip.com

Indoors

The Broad

art gallery, art galleries, art museums, Eli Broad, Edythe Broad · thebroad.org

Indoors

Prank Bar

· prankbar.com

Indoors

Spago

· wolfgangpuck.com

Indoors

Alma

fine dining restaurants

Indoors

Bestia

fine dining restaurants

Indoors

Lucques

fine dining restaurants

Indoors

M Bar Los Angeles

bars, restaurants · 1846 E 1st St, Los Angeles, CA 90033

Indoors

Mayan Bar & Grill, Aztec Hotel

bars, restaurants, pubs, Aztec Hotel Route 66 · 315 W Foothill Blvd, Monrovia, CA 91016

Indoors

Republique

fine dining restaurants

Indoors

Rustic Canyon

fine dining restaurants

Indoors

Sweatheory

yoga studios

Indoors

Andre's

Indoors

Bottega Louie

Indoors

C&O Restaurants

Indoors

El Cholo

Indoors

Farmer Boys

Indoors

IL Bambino

Indoors

JOEY DTLA

Indoors

Kato Restaurant

Indoors

Kobawoo House

Indoors

Levy

Indoors

Litz Restaurant

Indoors

Lux Restaurant

Indoors

Mama Lion

Indoors

Oaxacalifornia

Indoors

Pasta Roma

Indoors

Petit Ermitage

Indoors

République

Indoors

Restaurants

Indoors

Rosalind's

Indoors

Savoca

Indoors

Smoke House

Indoors

Subway

Indoors

Sunset Marquis

Indoors

Tracey's

Indoors

WaBa Grill

Indoors

Water Grill

Indoors

Yoshinoya

Indoors

Airports

Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) 9.6 mi to the centre

Los Angeles, CA, US — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 62 airlines (United Airlines, American Airlines, Delta Air Lines, US Airways…) · direct flights to 149 destinations incl. London, Atlanta, Las Vegas, New Orleans, Tokyo… (OpenFlights route data).

Indoor
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 62 airlines, 149 direct destinations

Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.

Hollywood Burbank Airport (BUR) 13 mi to the centre

2627 N Hollywood Way, Burbank, CA 91505 — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 9 airlines (Southwest Airlines, American Airlines, Alaska Airlines, United Airlines…) · direct flights to 12 destinations incl. Phoenix, Denver, Las Vegas, Portland, Seattle… (OpenFlights route data).

✈ Serves Riverside (58 mi) — the low-cost way in

Indoor
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 9 airlines, 12 direct destinations

Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.

Long Beach Airport (LGB) 16 mi to the centre

4100 Donald Douglas Dr, Long Beach, CA 90808 — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 5 airlines (JetBlue Airways, American Airlines, Alaska Airlines, Delta Air Lines…) · direct flights to 12 destinations incl. Portland, Seattle, Phoenix, Salt Lake City, Austin… (OpenFlights route data).

✈ Serves Riverside (44 mi) — the low-cost way in

Indoor
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 5 airlines, 12 direct destinations

Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.

Jack Northrop Field Hawthorne Municipal Airport (HHR) 8 mi to the centre

Hawthorne, CA, US — Indoor waiting areas, but some gates board by bus or on foot across the apron — plan for the weather on the day.

Indoor | Outdoor

Santa Monica Municipal Airport (SMO) 10 mi to the centre

Santa Monica, CA, US — Indoor waiting areas, but some gates board by bus or on foot across the apron — plan for the weather on the day.

Indoor | Outdoor

Van Nuys Airport (VNY) 17 mi to the centre

Van Nuys, CA, US — Indoor waiting areas, but some gates board by bus or on foot across the apron — plan for the weather on the day.

Indoor | Outdoor

Regional airports

Further out, but often the cheapest way in — the airports the low-cost carriers use. Each links to its own town's guide for getting from there into the city.

John Wayne Airport Orange County (SNA) 34 mi to the centre

Santa Ana, CA, US — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 13 airlines (Southwest Airlines, AirTran Airways, American Airlines, United Airlines…) · direct flights to 21 destinations incl. Atlanta, Denver, Phoenix, Chicago, Dallas-Fort Worth… (OpenFlights route data).

✈ Feeder airport · 34 mi from Los Angeles · Southwest Airlines, AirTran Airways, American Airlines · Getting around Orange County ("The OC"), California →

Indoor
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 13 airlines, 21 direct destinations

Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.

Ontario International Airport (ONT) 39 mi to the centre

Ontario, CA, US — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 9 airlines (Southwest Airlines, American Airlines, United Airlines, AirTran Airways…) · direct flights to 14 destinations incl. Denver, Guadalajara, Phoenix, Dallas-Fort Worth, Las Vegas… (OpenFlights route data).

✈ Feeder airport · 39 mi from Los Angeles · Southwest Airlines, American Airlines, United Airlines · Getting around Ontario, California →

Indoor
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 9 airlines, 14 direct destinations

Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.

Getting there by ferry

Burton Chace Park

Ferry terminal · 10 mi from the centre · Hornblower Cruises and Events

Dolphin Marina

Ferry terminal · 11 mi from the centre · Hornblower Cruises and Events

Fisherman's Village

Ferry terminal · 11 mi from the centre · Hornblower Cruises and Events

Esprit

Ferry terminal · 11 mi from the centre · Hornblower Cruises and Events

Del Rey Landing

Ferry terminal · 11 mi from the centre · Hornblower Cruises and Events

Marina "Mother's" Beach

Ferry terminal · 11 mi from the centre · Hornblower Cruises and Events

Local transit

Los Angeles County Metropolitan Transportation Aut

Bus, Metro · Los Angeles, California · Schedules & GTFS data (official feed)

Los Angeles Department of Transportation (LADOT, D

Bus, Rail · Los Angeles, California · Schedules & GTFS data (official feed)

Big Blue Bus

Bus · Santa Monica, California · Schedules & GTFS data (official feed)

Long Beach Transit (LBT)

Bus · Long Beach, California · Schedules & GTFS data (official feed)

Torrance Transit

Bus · Torrance, California · Schedules & GTFS data (official feed)

Trains & rail

Metrolink

Rail operator

Amtrak

National rail

Coaches & shuttles

FlixBus → Las Vegas, Nevada

Five to six hours across the desert, several departures a day. · Las Vegas, Nevada guide →

FlixBus ← San Francisco, California

Seven to eight hours down I-5; the overnight is popular. · San Francisco, California guide →

Greyhound

Intercity coach

Jefferson Lines

Intercity coach

MegaBus

Intercity coach

Trailways

Intercity coach

Private aviation

On-demand charter, jet cards and the semi-private scheduled carriers that serve this city.

Aero

Semi-private scheduled · Embraer 135 (16 seats) · First-class-only scheduled flights from Van Nuys to Aspen, Sun Valley, Cabo and Europe in summer.

Clay Lacy Aviation

Charter, management, FBO · Managed fleet, light to ultra-long-range · Charter, management and FBOs at Van Nuys and Orange County; the original Hollywood jet operator.

Surf Air

Semi-private scheduled · Pilatus PC-12, King Air · Subscription and per-seat regional flights in California, Texas and Hawaii.

Airshare

Fractional, jet card · Embraer Phenom 300, Challenger 350 · Fractional and jet card programme centred on the US Midwest and East.

XO

Charter, shared flights · Light to large-cabin via partner fleet · Vista Global's on-demand charter and by-the-seat shared flights, app-based.

Living Here

Practical notes for residents

Getting about

  • You will want a car; distances are large and the neighbourhoods are islands. But Metro rail (the E line to Santa Monica, the A to Long Beach and Pasadena, the B under Hollywood) and the buses are real and improving, and a TAP card works on all of it.
  • Rideshare is the default for nights out. Traffic peaks 7–10 and 3–7; plan around it. The 405 and the 10 are the freeways you will learn to dread.
  • LAX is the international gateway, 30–90 minutes from most of the city depending on traffic; Burbank is the easy small airport for the Valley. Union Station downtown has Amtrak to San Diego, Santa Barbara and the Coast Starlight north.
  • The beach bike path runs 22 miles from Pacific Palisades to Torrance and is the best free thing in the city.

Health

  • Cedars-Sinai, UCLA Health and Keck (USC) are among the country's best hospitals; LAC+USC is the great public hospital and trauma centre.
  • Dial 911. Pharmacies and urgent-care clinics are everywhere. Air quality alerts and wildfire smoke are seasonal realities; the mountains and the sea keep most days clear.
  • Insurance is essential. Sun protection is not optional — the UV index is high year-round.

Work & study

  • UCLA and USC are the flagship universities; Caltech in Pasadena is one of the world's leading science schools; the Cal State campuses and the community colleges educate most of the region.
  • Entertainment — film, television, music, games — is the identity and a huge employer, with the studios in Burbank, Culver City and Hollywood. Aerospace, the twin ports of LA and Long Beach (the busiest in the Americas), fashion, tech on the Westside's 'Silicon Beach' and a vast healthcare sector round it out.
  • The industry runs on freelancers and contracts; the city's economy is enormous and its inequality visible.

Money & manners

  • US dollars; cards everywhere, cash for the taco truck. Tip 20% in restaurants, a couple of dollars at valet — and valet parking is a genuine LA institution.
  • Casual is the dress code, even at expensive restaurants. Reservations matter; so does not being late, which the traffic makes a constant struggle.
  • The beach is free, the hiking is free and the sunset is reliable. Earthquakes are rare and mostly small; know where the doorframe is.

Sources

Everything above is checkable