Tokyo's metropolitan area holds around 37 million people and runs with a precision that shames cities a tenth its size. It is not one city but a few hundred neighbourhoods stitched together by the best railway on the planet.
Edo was a fishing village with a castle, built by Ōta Dōkan in 1457, until Tokugawa Ieyasu made it the seat of his shogunate in 1603; within a century it was probably the largest city in the world, with over a million people, while the emperor stayed in Kyoto. The Meiji Restoration of 1868 brought the emperor east, renamed the city Tokyo — 'eastern capital' — and set off the modernisation that made Japan an industrial power. The Great Kanto earthquake of 1923 and the firebombing of 1945 each destroyed most of the city, which is why almost nothing old survives and why Tokyo rebuilds itself every generation as a matter of course. The 1964 Olympics gave it the Shinkansen and the expressways; the 1980s bubble gave it the money; the decades since have given it a calm, ageing prosperity and a housing market that, unusually for a great city, has stayed within reach.
There is no centre. The Imperial Palace occupies the middle and the city arranges itself in a ring around it along the Yamanote line, and the stations are the districts. Shinjuku is the busiest station in the world, the skyscraper city hall and the bars of Golden Gai; Shibuya is the crossing, youth fashion and the tech companies; Harajuku and Omotesando are style; Roppongi is foreign nightlife and the art triangle; Ginza is old-money shopping; Marunouchi and Otemachi are the corporate headquarters beside Tokyo Station. East of the palace is the older shitamachi, the 'low city' — Asakusa's temple, Ueno's museums and park, Akihabara's electronics, Ryogoku's sumo. West along the Chuo line are the neighbourhoods where people actually live: Nakano, Koenji, Kichijoji. The twenty-three wards are the city proper; the Tama area and three neighbouring prefectures make up the rest of the metropolis.
It has more Michelin stars than any other city and the honest view is that the stars miss most of the point: the ramen counter, the standing sushi bar, the department-store food hall and the convenience store all operate at a level other countries reserve for special occasions. There is a museum or gallery for every interest, a live-music scene of tiny basements, sumo tournaments at Ryogoku in January, May and September, and baseball — the Giants at the Tokyo Dome, the Swallows at Jingu — which is the true mass sport. Spring is cherry blossom in Ueno and along the Meguro river; summer is fireworks and festivals in the heat. The city is quiet in a way that surprises people: no horns, no shouting, trains where nobody speaks. It is also very safe, very clean and very good at queueing.
The hard parts: summers are hot and brutally humid from July to September, with a typhoon season on top; the rush-hour trains are as crowded as the videos suggest; the language barrier is real outside the tourist core, and the paperwork of living here — the ward office, the bank, the phone contract, the apartment with its key money and guarantor — is famously tedious. Flats are small. Earthquakes are a routine fact and the city is built for them. Work culture, though improving, still runs long. What it offers is a city of 14 million in which the trains run to the minute, the streets are safe at any hour, the food is the best in the world at every price, and a new neighbourhood can be discovered every weekend for a lifetime without exhausting the supply.
The busiest station on earth, the metropolitan government towers, the department stores, Kabukicho's neon, the tiny bars of Golden Gai and Omoide Yokocho, and Shinjuku Gyoen, the best park in the city, ten minutes' walk from all of it.
The scramble crossing and the youth-fashion streets, Takeshita-dori's teenage crowds, Meiji shrine's forest, and Omotesando's tree-lined avenue of flagship stores and architecture. Where trends start.
The old commercial heart east of the palace: Ginza's department stores and sushi counters, the corporate towers of Marunouchi around Tokyo Station, and Nihonbashi's Edo-era merchant houses and the Mitsukoshi flagship.
The shitamachi: Senso-ji temple and its market street, the Sumida river and Tokyo Skytree across it, Ueno's park, zoo and the national museums, and Ameyoko's market under the tracks.
The international district: embassies, the foreign-friendly nightlife, and the art triangle of the Mori, the National Art Center and the Suntory museum. Azabu-Juban behind it is where expat families live.
West on the Chuo line — Koenji's vintage shops and live houses, Nakano Broadway's anime and collectibles, and Kichijoji, with Inokashira park, voted the place Tokyoites most want to live nearly every year.
The bohemian low-rise district two stops from Shibuya on the Odakyu line: second-hand clothes, small theatres, coffee and curry. Student and musician territory.
The corner of the old city that the earthquake and the bombs missed: wooden houses, temples, the Yanaka cemetery and a shopping street with cats. Quiet, and best on foot.
Restaurant
. Cocktail bar, Espresso bar & Norwegian Vintage design. @fuglenoslo 1963, @fuglentokyo 2012, @fuglencoffee_tokyo 2014, @fuglenasakusa 2018. · Tomigaya… · fuglen.com
Narita, 12, JP — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 66 airlines (All Nippon Airways, Japan Airlines Domestic, American Airlines, Delta Air Lines…) · direct flights to 103 destinations incl. Seoul, Taipei, Bangkok, Los Angeles, Singapore… (OpenFlights route data).
Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.
Tokyo, 13, JP — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 32 airlines (All Nippon Airways, Japan Airlines Domestic, Hokkaido International Airlines, Skymark Airlines…) · direct flights to 73 destinations incl. Honolulu, Shanghai, Bangkok, Beijing, Fukuoka… (OpenFlights route data).
Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.
Ferry terminal · 14 km from the centre
Metro, bus, tram · The Toei subway lines, buses and the Arakawa tram. · Fares: Suica or PASMO IC card
Metro · Nine subway lines; Toei runs four more and the buses. · Fares: Suica or PASMO IC card · Airport: Narita Express or Keisei Skyliner; Tokyo Monorail fro
Rail operator
National rail
National rail
National rail
National rail
National rail
National rail
National rail
Intercity coach
On-demand charter, jet cards and the semi-private scheduled carriers that serve this city.
Charter, management · Gulfstream, Global · Tokyo and Hong Kong business-jet operator.
Broker · Any aircraft via operators worldwide · Global charter broker with 30+ offices; private jets, group charters and cargo.
FBO, charter, management · Managed fleet · FBO network and management across Europe, Africa, the Middle East and Asia-Pacific.
Fractional, jet card · Embraer Praetor, Bombardier Challenger & Global, Gulfstream · Fractional ownership and jet cards in North America and Europe.
Charter, management · Large-cabin & VIP airliners · Geneva-based operator known for large-cabin and VIP airliner charters.
Cultural · 5 hours · from ¥18000/pp