Ultimate Edition

Hong Kong

Published for the city and the Pearl River Delta
HK Monday, October 12, 2026 Vol. CLXXXV · Est. 1841
Guides › China › Hong Kong

A borrowed place on borrowed time, still outlasting the loan

Hong Kong is seven and a half million people on a set of steep islands and a peninsula at the mouth of the Pearl River, and still one of the great trading cities of the world. It is denser, faster and more vertical than anywhere else you have been.

Hong Kong
Hong Kong — Wikipedia / Wikimedia Commons · See source page

A fishing and salt-producing coast at the edge of the Qing empire until Britain took the island in 1841 in the First Opium War, added Kowloon in 1860 and leased the New Territories for ninety-nine years in 1898. It grew as an entrepôt, was occupied by Japan from 1941 to 1945, and then took in waves of refugees from the mainland who supplied the labour and the capital for the textile boom of the 1950s and the financial one that followed. Britain handed it back to China on 1 July 1997 under the 'one country, two systems' formula, with a promise that its way of life would stand for fifty years. The protests of 2014 and 2019 and the National Security Law of 2020 redrew the terms of that arrangement, and the city is still working out what the new ones mean.

Hong Kong Island's north shore is the old colony: Central's banks and towers, Admiralty's government offices, Wan Chai and Causeway Bay's shopping and nightlife, with the Peak rising behind and the quieter south side — Aberdeen, Repulse Bay, Stanley — over the ridge. Across Victoria Harbour, by Star Ferry or MTR, is Kowloon: Tsim Sha Tsui's hotels and museums at the tip, Mong Kok's markets and sheer density behind it, Sham Shui Po's electronics and old tenements further north. Beyond Boundary Street are the New Territories, where most people live in new towns like Sha Tin, Tuen Mun and Tseung Kwan O, and where the country parks — roughly three-quarters of the land is green — begin. Lantau has the airport, Disneyland and the Big Buddha; the outlying islands have the seafood and the weekend.

The city works long hours and eats constantly: dim sum in the morning, milk tea and buttered toast in a cha chaan teng, a dai pai dong stir-fry at night, with roast goose, wonton noodles and egg tarts as the standing civic argument. Cantonese is the language of the street, English of the law and the deal, Mandarin increasingly of both. Horse racing at Happy Valley on Wednesday nights and Sha Tin at weekends is the true mass sport; the Rugby Sevens in spring is the expatriate carnival; hiking the MacLehose and Dragon's Back trails is what everyone does on Sundays. The film heritage — Bruce Lee, Wong Kar-wai, Johnnie To — is memorialised as much as continued, and M+ and the Palace Museum in West Kowloon are the new cultural anchors.

The hard parts are the flats and the politics. Housing is the least affordable in the world by most measures; a family in four hundred square feet is unremarkable and the subdivided flats of Sham Shui Po are a scandal everyone acknowledges. Summers are hot, wet and typhoon-prone, and the air blowing down from the Delta can be poor. The political space has narrowed sharply since 2020, a good many people have left for Britain, Canada and Australia, and the press is more careful than it was. What it offers is still the most efficient city on earth — the MTR, the Octopus card, the ferries, a hospital within reach of anywhere — a skyline without rival, real wilderness twenty minutes from Central, and food that ends most arguments.

Where People Live

The neighbourhoods

Central, Sheung Wan & the Peak

The banks, the Mid-Levels escalator, Lan Kwai Fong's bars, Sheung Wan's dried-seafood shops and galleries, and the Peak Tram up to the view. Where the money and the tourists both start.

Wan Chai & Causeway Bay

Wan Chai's wet market, old tenements and bar strip, the convention centre on the harbour, and Causeway Bay's department stores and Times Square — the densest retail on the island.

Kennedy Town & Sai Ying Pun

The western end of the island, opened up by the MTR extension: old shophouses, new cafés and restaurants, and the waterfront promenade where the city watches the sunset.

Tsim Sha Tsui

The tip of Kowloon: the Star Ferry pier, the clock tower, the museums and the harbourfront promenade with the best view of the island; Nathan Road's hotels and shops run north from it.

Mong Kok & Sham Shui Po

Kowloon at full density — the Ladies' Market, the goldfish and flower markets, Sham Shui Po's electronics and fabric streets, and some of the best cheap food in the city.

Stanley & the South Side

Over the ridge from Central: Repulse Bay's beach and apartment towers, Stanley's market and seafront pubs, and Aberdeen's typhoon shelter and floating boats.

Sha Tin & the New Territories

The new towns where most of Hong Kong lives, the racecourse, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery, and the trailheads for the country parks and the Sai Kung coast.

Lantau & the Outlying Islands

The airport, Disneyland, the Big Buddha at Ngong Ping and the fishing village of Tai O on Lantau; Lamma and Cheung Chau, by ferry from Central, are the car-free seafood weekends.

Restaurants & places to go

OriGin

· originbar.hk

Indoors

Zerve

· instagram.com

Indoors

Anna Restaurant

Indoors

Chan Kun Kee

Indoors

Eat Up

Indoors

Fu Kee

Indoors

Ice Restaurant

Indoors

Lamees

Indoors

MOMO Restaurant

Indoors

Parkview

Indoors

Sfizio

Indoors

Tim Ho Wan

Indoors

VEA Restaurant

Indoors

Vino Bar

Indoors

WING Restaurant

Indoors

Yakiniku Kakura

Indoors

Airports

Hong Kong International Airport (HKG) 27 km to the centre

Hong Kong, NT, HK — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 83 airlines (Cathay Pacific, Dragonair, Hong Kong Airlines, China Eastern Airlines…) · direct flights to 133 destinations incl. Bangkok, Seoul, Singapore, Hangzhou, Shanghai… (OpenFlights route data).

Indoor
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 83 airlines, 133 direct destinations

Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.

Regional airports

Further out, but often the cheapest way in — the airports the low-cost carriers use. Each links to its own town's guide for getting from there into the city.

Guangzhou Baiyun International Airport (CAN) 144 km to the centre

Guangzhou (Huadu), 44, CN — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 56 airlines (China Southern Airlines, Air China, Shenzhen Airlines, Hainan Airlines…) · direct flights to 150 destinations incl. Hangzhou, Chongqing, Shanghai, Bangkok, Chengdu… (OpenFlights route data).

✈ Feeder airport · 144 km from Hong Kong · China Southern Airlines, Air China, Shenzhen Airlines · Getting around Guangzhou, China →

Indoor
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 56 airlines, 150 direct destinations

Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.

Shenzhen Bao'an International Airport (SZX) 48 km to the centre

Shenzhen, 44, CN — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 31 airlines (Shenzhen Airlines, China Southern Airlines, Air China, Hainan Airlines…) · direct flights to 86 destinations incl. Hangzhou, Chengdu, Shanghai, Chongqing, Kunming… (OpenFlights route data).

✈ Feeder airport · 48 km from Hong Kong · Shenzhen Airlines, China Southern Airlines, Air China

Indoor
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 31 airlines, 86 direct destinations

Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.

Macao International Airport (MFM) 64 km to the centre

Nossa Senhora do Carmo, CAR, MO — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 22 airlines (Air Macau, Air China, China Southern Airlines, Xiamen Airlines…) · direct flights to 38 destinations incl. Shanghai, Hangzhou, Manila, Shanghai, Xiamen… (OpenFlights route data).

✈ Feeder airport · 64 km from Hong Kong · Air Macau, Air China, China Southern Airlines · Getting around Morocco →

Indoor
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 22 airlines, 38 direct destinations

Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.

Zhuhai Jinwan Airport (ZUH) 91 km to the centre

Zhuhai (Jinwan), 44, CN — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 15 airlines (China Southern Airlines, Air China, Shenzhen Airlines, Shandong Airlines…) · direct flights to 30 destinations incl. Shanghai, Fuzhou, Shanghai, Xiamen, Beijing… (OpenFlights route data).

✈ Feeder airport · 91 km from Hong Kong · China Southern Airlines, Air China, Shenzhen Airlines

Indoor
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 15 airlines, 30 direct destinations
  • China Southern Airlines CZ (737-800, A320, 737, A321, 737-700, Embraer 190) · 18 routes: Beijing, Changcha, Fuzhou*, Guiyang, Haikou, Hangzhou, Hefei, Kunming, Meixian, Nanchang, Sanya, Shanghai, Shanghai, Shantou, Wuhan, Xiamen*, Yiwu, Zhengzhou
  • Air China CA (737-800, A319, A321, 737) · 10 routes: Beijing, Chengdu, Chongqing, Fuzhou*, Guiyang*, Huangyan, Nanchang*, Nanning, Wenzhou*, Xiamen*
  • Shenzhen Airlines ZH (737-800, 737, A319, A320) · 6 routes: Beijing*, Chengdu*, Chongqing*, Fuzhou, Huangyan, Nanning
  • Shandong Airlines SC (737-800, 737) · 5 routes: Guiyang, Nanchang, Nanning, Wenzhou, Xiamen
  • Air Foyle GS (Embraer 190) · 3 routes: Ganzhou, Guilin, Haikou
  • China Eastern Airlines MU (A320, A321, 737-800) · 2 routes: Shanghai, Shanghai
  • China SSS 9C (A320) · 2 routes: Shanghai, Shanghai
  • Huaxia G5 (CRJ-900, CRJ-200) · 2 routes: Liuzhou, Wuzhou
  • Juneyao Airlines HO (A320) · 2 routes: Shanghai, Shanghai
  • Potomac Air BK (737-800) · 2 routes: Sanya, Tianjin
  • Sichuan Airlines 3U (A320) · 2 routes: Changzhou, Haikou
  • West Air China PN (A320) · 2 routes: Chongqing, Zhengzhou
  • Xiamen Airlines MF (737) · 2 routes: Fuzhou, Xiamen
  • Caucasus Airlines NS (Embraer 190) · 1 route: Ninbo
  • Shanghai Airlines FM (737-800) · 1 route: Shanghai

Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.

Getting there by ferry

Tsuen Wan Ferry Pier

Ferry terminal · 6.1 km from the centre

Tai Shui Hang Landing

Ferry terminal · 6.5 km from the centre · CEDD

Kowloon City Ferry Pier

Ferry terminal · 6.5 km from the centre

Ma Liu Shui Landing No. 2

Ferry terminal · 6.6 km from the centre

Ma Liu Shui Landing No. 1

Ferry terminal · 6.6 km from the centre

Ma Liu Shui Landing No. 3

Ferry terminal · 6.7 km from the centre

North Point - Kowloon City

Ferry route · 新渡輪服務有限公司 Sun Ferry Services Company Limited

Central - Ma Wan

Ferry route · 珀麗灣客運有限公司 Park Island Transport Company Limited

Park Island - Central

Ferry route · 珀麗灣客運有限公司 Park Island Transport Company Limited

Central - Tsim Sha Tsui

Ferry route · 天星小輪有限公司 The “Star Ferry” Company, Limited

HK Water Taxi Government Route

Ferry route · 富裕小輪有限公司 Fortune Ferry Limited

North Point - Hung Hom

Ferry route · 新渡輪 New World First Ferry

Wan Chai - Tsim Sha Tsui

Ferry route · 天星小輪有限公司 The “Star Ferry” Company, Limited

WestK Ferry

Ferry route · 富裕小輪有限公司 Fortune Ferry Limited

Local transit

Trains & rail

MTR Airport Express

National rail

Private aviation

On-demand charter, jet cards and the semi-private scheduled carriers that serve this city.

Metrojet

Charter, management · Managed fleet · Hong Kong-based charter and aircraft management.

Sino Jet

Charter, management · Managed fleet, Gulfstream, Global · Hong Kong and Beijing business-jet management and charter.

Air Charter Service

Broker · Any aircraft via operators worldwide · Global charter broker with 30+ offices; private jets, group charters and cargo.

ExecuJet

FBO, charter, management · Managed fleet · FBO network and management across Europe, Africa, the Middle East and Asia-Pacific.

Flexjet

Fractional, jet card · Embraer Praetor, Bombardier Challenger & Global, Gulfstream · Fractional ownership and jet cards in North America and Europe.

Tours & experiences

Living Here

Practical notes for residents

Getting about

  • The MTR is one of the best metro systems in the world — clean, frequent, air-conditioned and reaching almost everywhere; an Octopus card pays for it and for buses, trams, ferries, minibuses and most convenience stores, and contactless bank cards now work on the MTR gates too.
  • The double-decker trams along the island's north shore and the Star Ferry across the harbour are the cheapest sightseeing in the city and still used for the commute. Taxis are plentiful and reasonably priced; red ones cover the urban areas, green the New Territories, blue Lantau.
  • The Airport Express runs from Chek Lap Kok to Central in about twenty-four minutes; high-speed trains to Shenzhen and Guangzhou leave from West Kowloon, and the Lo Wu and Lok Ma Chau crossings connect to the mainland metro. A car is pointless.
  • The Mid-Levels escalator and the covered walkways mean much of Central can be crossed without touching a street; the hills are steep and the humidity makes them steeper.

Health

  • Queen Mary, Prince of Wales and Queen Elizabeth are the big public teaching hospitals, run by the Hospital Authority; care is cheap for residents and charged at much higher rates to visitors. The private hospitals — Adventist, Matilda, Gleneagles, Sanatorium — are excellent and expensive.
  • Dial 999. Watsons and Mannings pharmacies are on every block; private clinics see walk-ins quickly. Visitors should carry insurance.
  • Summer heat and humidity are punishing, and the Observatory's typhoon signals matter: at Signal 8 offices, schools and most transport shut. The air is poorest in winter when the wind comes from the north.

Work & study

  • The University of Hong Kong, the Chinese University and HKUST are all ranked among Asia's best, with PolyU and CityU close behind; teaching is in English and the campuses draw from across the region.
  • Finance dominates — HKEX, HSBC and the asset managers — alongside trade and logistics (the port and the world's busiest air-cargo airport), professional services, retail and tourism. The mainland is both the biggest customer and the biggest competitor.
  • Salaries tax tops out at roughly 15–17% and there is no capital gains tax, sales tax or VAT, which is why the place exists; the trade-off is the rent.

Money & manners

  • Hong Kong dollars, pegged to the US dollar at around 7.8. Cards and Octopus cover most things but cash is still used in markets and small restaurants. A 10% service charge is added on most restaurant bills; leave the coins on top.
  • Fast and businesslike: stand right on escalators, queue properly, accept and offer business cards with both hands, and do not stick chopsticks upright in rice. Mandarin is understood but Cantonese is appreciated.
  • October to December is the season — warm, dry and clear. June to September is hot, wet and typhoon-prone; January and February are cool, grey and damp indoors and out.

Sources

Everything above is checkable