Taipei, Taiwan
The most liveable capital in East Asia, and the least noticed
Taipei is the capital of Taiwan, a city of around 2.5 million in a basin ringed by mountains, and the centre of a metropolitan area of roughly 7 million that takes in New Taipei and Keelung. It is safe, cheap, friendly and superbly run, and it lives with a geopolitical question that it mostly declines to discuss.
The Taipei basin was Ketagalan land until Fujianese settlers arrived in the early 18th century — Bangka, now Wanhua, was trading by 1709 — and the Qing made it a prefecture in 1875 and finished the city walls in 1884, just before Taiwan became a province with Taipei as its capital. Japan took the island in 1895 and rebuilt Taipei as a colonial showpiece, laying out the boulevards, the Presidential Office and the railways. In 1949 Chiang Kai-shek's Nationalist government retreated here with around two million people from the mainland and declared Taipei the provisional capital of the Republic of China; martial law lasted until 1987. The economic miracle from the 1960s made the island a manufacturing and then a semiconductor power, and democratisation in the 1990s — the first direct presidential election was in 1996 — made Taipei the capital of one of Asia's most open societies.
The city sits where the Tamsui, Keelung and Xindian rivers meet, and the old town is on the Tamsui side: Wanhua's Longshan temple and Bopiliao, Dadaocheng's tea merchants on Dihua street, and Ximending, the pedestrian youth district that grew out of the Japanese-era entertainment quarter. The Presidential Office and the government district run east from there through Zhongzheng. The city grows newer as you go east: Da'an is the university, café and comfortable residential district around Yongkang street; Zhongshan is boutiques and Japanese-flavoured lanes; Xinyi is the financial district and Taipei 101; Songshan has the city airport and the Raohe night market. Shilin, north across the Keelung river, holds the National Palace Museum and the largest night market; Beitou is the hot-spring town at the end of the red line; Yangmingshan rises behind. New Taipei City wraps around all of it, with Tamsui at the river mouth.
Taipei is a night-market city — Shilin, Raohe, Ningxia, Tonghua — with oyster omelettes, stinky tofu, beef noodle soup, and the bubble tea the island gave the world. It is also a serious food city above that level: Din Tai Fung's original on Xinyi road, a good Japanese and modern Taiwanese fine-dining scene, and tea culture from Maokong's hillside houses to the Dadaocheng shops. The National Palace Museum holds the imperial collection Chiang brought from Beijing. Baseball is the national sport — Taiwan's Premier12 win in 2024 produced days of euphoria — and basketball fills the rest. Cycling is enormous, from the riverside paths to the round-the-island pilgrimage. The city is Buddhist, Taoist and secular all at once, with temples on ordinary streets, and it hosts the largest Pride parade in Asia. People are exceptionally helpful, and the convenience stores do everything.
The hard parts: the climate is subtropical and wet — winters are grey and drizzly, summers are hot and humid, and typhoons arrive between July and October. Air quality is mediocre, though better than the industrial south. Housing in the city is expensive relative to salaries, which are low for a developed economy, so the young live in New Taipei or with their parents. Earthquakes are frequent and occasionally serious. And there is China, whose aircraft cross the median line most weeks; Taipei's response is to keep building, and to argue about it at election time. What it offers is a capital that is safe at any hour, a metro that is spotless and cheap, health care that is the envy of the region, mountains and hot springs at the end of the line, and a warmth toward outsiders that is not an act.
Where People Live
Wanhua & Ximending
The oldest quarter: Longshan temple, the restored Bopiliao street and the Huaxi night market, then Ximending's pedestrian streets of cinemas, street fashion and teenage crowds. Taipei's Shibuya, on a smaller scale.
Dadaocheng & Dihua Street
The 19th-century tea and textile merchants' district on the Tamsui river, with its dried-goods shops, Xiahai City God temple, restored shophouses full of cafés, and the Ningxia night market nearby.
Zhongzheng
The government district: the Presidential Office, Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall and its square, the 228 Peace Park, the main railway station and Taipei Main Station's transport maze beneath it.
Da'an & Yongkang Street
The comfortable, tree-lined heart of the city around National Taiwan University and Da'an Forest Park: Yongkang street's restaurants and the original Din Tai Fung, the Shida night market, and the cafés and bookshops of the university lanes.
Zhongshan
The lanes off Zhongshan North road, with their boutiques, Japanese-influenced cafés and the SPOT film house in the old US ambassador's residence; the Museum of Fine Arts and the Expo Park are at the north end.
Xinyi
Taipei 101, the financial towers, the malls, the Taipei Dome and the nightlife around them, with Elephant Mountain's stairs for the skyline photograph and Songshan Cultural and Creative Park in an old tobacco factory.
Shilin & Beitou
North of the river: the National Palace Museum, the Shilin night market, and the affluent Tianmu enclave; then Beitou's hot-spring hotels, public baths and geothermal valley on the way up to Yangmingshan.
Songshan & Raohe
The eastern district with the city airport, the Ciyou temple beside the Raohe night market, and the Wufenpu wholesale clothing market. Everyday Taipei rather than showcase Taipei.
Restaurants & places to go
Indulge Bistro
No. 11, Lane 219, Section 1, Fuxing South Road, Da’an District, Taipei City, Taiwan 106 · indulgebistrotaipei.blogspot.com
Airports
Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport (TPE) 30 km to the centre
Taoyuan, TAO, TW — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 50 airlines (China Airlines, EVA Air, TransAsia Airways, China Eastern Airlines…) · direct flights to 103 destinations incl. Tokyo, Osaka, Shanghai, Seoul, Singapore… (OpenFlights route data).
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 50 airlines, 103 direct destinations
- China Airlines CI (A330-300, 737-800, 747-400, A340-300, A321) · 53 routes: Agana, Babelthuap, Bangkok, Beijing, Brisbane, Busan, Chengdu, Dalian, Delhi, Denpasar, Frankfurt, FSZ, Fukuoka, Guangzhou, Haikou, Hanoi, Hiroshima, Ho Chi Minh City, Hong Kong, Honolulu, Ishigaki, Jakarta, Kagoshima, Kuala Lumpur, Los Angeles, Manila, Miyazaki, Nagoya, Nanchang, Okinawa, Osaka, Penang, Phnom-penh, Qingdao, San Francisco, Sanya, Sapporo, Seoul, Shanghai, Shenzhen … +13 more
- EVA Air BR (A330-200, 777-300ER, A321, M90, 747-400, A330-300…) · 43 routes: Agana, Asahikawa, Bangkok, Beijing, Brisbane, Chengdu, Denpasar, Fukuoka, Guangzhou, Guilin, Hakodate, Hangzhou, Hanoi*, Harbin, Ho Chi Minh City, Hohhot, Hong Kong, Huangshan, Jakarta, Jinan, Kanazawa, Kuala Lumpur, Los Angeles, Macau, Manila, New York, Okayama*, Osaka, Paris, Phnom-penh, San Francisco, Sapporo, Seattle, Sendai, Seoul, Shanghai, Singapore, Surabaya, Tianjin, Tokyo … +3 more
- TransAsia Airways GE (A321, 330, A320, 737-800) · 19 routes: Asahikawa, Babelthuap, Bangkok, Changcha, Cheju, Chiang Mai, Dayong, Hakodate, Ishigaki, Kushiro, Macau, Okinawa, Osaka, Sapporo, Shanghai, Siem-reap, Tokyo, Wuxi*, Xuzhou
- China Eastern Airlines MU (A320, 737-800, A321, A330-200, 737) · 15 routes: Hefei, INC, Kunming, Nanchang, Nanjing, Ninbo, Qingdao, Shanghai, Shijiazhuang, Taiyuan, Wuhan, Wuxi, Xi'an, Xuzhou, Yancheng
- China Southern Airlines CZ (A320, 737-800, A321, A330-300, 757-200, 777-200) · 15 routes: Changcha, Changchun, Dalian, Dayong, Guangzhou, Guilin, Guiyang, Harbin, Nanning, Shanghai, Shenyang, Shenzhen, Urumqi, Wuhan, Zhengzhou
- Uni Air B7 (A321, 737-800, A330-200, M90, 74E, A320) · 10 routes: Chongqing, Dalian*, Fuzhou, Nanjing*, Ninbo*, Qingdao*, Shenyang*, Shenzhen*, Xi'an*, Yancheng
- All Nippon Airways NH (A330-200, A321, A330-300, 767-300, M90) · 9 routes: Asahikawa*, Fukuoka*, Hakodate*, Kanazawa*, Okayama*, Osaka, Sapporo*, Sendai*, Tokyo
- Mandarin Airlines AE (A330-300, 737-800, A320, A340-300, A321, 747-400) · 8 routes: Changcha*, Lijiang, Nanjing*, Ninbo*, Shenyang*, Xiamen*, Yancheng*, Zhengzhou*
- Air China CA (747-400, A321, A330-200, 777-300ER, M90, A319…) · 7 routes: Beijing, Chengdu, Chongqing, Hangzhou, Hohhot, Shanghai, Wenzhou
- Cathay Pacific CX (777-300, A330-300, 777-200, A340-300, 747-400, A320…) · 6 routes: Fukuoka, Hong Kong, Nagoya, Osaka, Seoul, Tokyo
- Hainan Airlines HU (737-800) · 6 routes: Beijing, Dalian, Guangzhou, Haikou, Lanzhou, Xi'an
- Japan Airlines Domestic JL (737-800, 777-200, A330-300, 747-400, 767) · 5 routes: Fukuoka*, Hong Kong*, Nagoya, Osaka, Tokyo
- Xiamen Airlines MF (737-800, 330) · 5 routes: Changcha, Fuzhou, Hangzhou, Quanzhou, Xiamen
- Primaris Airlines FE (M83) · 4 routes: Guiyang, Hefei, INC, Shijiazhuang
- Shenzhen Airlines ZH (737-800, A320) · 4 routes: Nanning, Shenyang, Shenzhen, Wuxi
- Delta Air Lines DL (747-400) · 3 routes: Los Angeles*, San Francisco*, Tokyo
- Garuda Indonesia GA (A330-300, 737-800) · 3 routes: Denpasar*, Jakarta, Singapore*
- KLM Royal Dutch Airlines KL (777, 340) · 3 routes: Amsterdam, Bangkok*, Manila
- Scoot TZ (777-200) · 3 routes: Seoul, Singapore, Tokyo
- Shandong Airlines SC (737-800) · 3 routes: Jinan, Qingdao, Yantai
- US Airways US (777-300ER, 747-400) · 3 routes: Los Angeles, San Francisco, Seattle
- Air France AF (777) · 2 routes: Amsterdam*, Manila*
- China SSS 9C (A320) · 2 routes: Shanghai, Shijiazhuang
- Jetstar Asia Airways 3K (A320) · 2 routes: Osaka, Singapore
- Malaysia Airlines MH (737-800) · 2 routes: Kota Kinabalu, Kuala Lumpur
- Peach Aviation MM (A320) · 2 routes: Okinawa, Osaka
- Philippine Airlines PR (A320) · 2 routes: Kalibo, Manila
- Thai Airways International TG (330) · 2 routes: Bangkok, Seoul
- Vietnam Airlines VN (A321) · 2 routes: Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City
- Air Busan BX (A321, 734) · 1 route: Busan
- Air Macau NX (A319, A320, A321) · 1 route: Macau
- AirAsia AK (A320) · 1 route: Kota Kinabalu
- AirAsia X D7 (330) · 1 route: Kuala Lumpur
- Alitalia AZ (A330-300) · 1 route: Delhi*
- American Airlines AA (737) · 1 route: Tokyo
- Arrow Air JW (A320) · 1 route: Tokyo
- Asiana Airlines OZ (A321, A330-300, 777-200) · 1 route: Seoul
- Cebu Pacific 5J (A320) · 1 route: Manila
- Dragonair KA (A320, A321, A330-300) · 1 route: Hong Kong
- Emirates EK (777-300ER) · 1 route: Dubai
- Hawaiian Airlines HA (A330-300) · 1 route: Honolulu
- Hong Kong Airlines HX (A330-200, A330-300) · 1 route: Hong Kong
- Juneyao Airlines HO (A320) · 1 route: Shanghai
- Korean Air KE (A330-300, 737-800) · 1 route: Seoul
- Sichuan Airlines 3U (A320) · 1 route: Kunming
- Singapore Airlines Cargo SQ (A330-300, 777-300ER) · 1 route: Singapore
- Tiger Airways TR (A320) · 1 route: Singapore
- Transaero Airlines UN (A330-300) · 1 route: Bangkok
- United Airlines UA (777) · 1 route: San Francisco
- Zest Air Z2 (A320) · 1 route: Kalibo
Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.
Taipei Songshan International Airport (TSA) 3.4 km to the centre
Taipei (Songshan), TPE, TW — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 15 airlines (TransAsia Airways, Mandarin Airlines, China Airlines, EVA Air…) · direct flights to 19 destinations incl. Shanghai, Seoul, Tokyo, Fuzhou, Shanghai… (OpenFlights route data).
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 15 airlines, 19 direct destinations
- TransAsia Airways GE (A321, ATR 72) · 11 routes: Chongqing, Fuzhou, Hangzhou, Hefei, Hualien, Kinmen, Makung, Shanghai, Shanghai, Tianjin, Wuhan
- Mandarin Airlines AE (Embraer 190, 737-800) · 5 routes: Fengnin, Fuzhou, Kinmen, Makung, Wenzhou*
- China Airlines CI (A330-300, 737-800) · 3 routes: Seoul, Shanghai, Tokyo
- EVA Air BR (A330-300, A321) · 3 routes: Seoul, Shanghai, Tokyo
- Primaris Airlines FE (M83) · 3 routes: Nanning, Taiyuan, Tianjin
- Air China CA (737-800, A330-300) · 2 routes: Shanghai, Tianjin
- Shanghai Airlines FM (A330-300, 737-800) · 2 routes: Shanghai, Shanghai
- Sichuan Airlines 3U (A320) · 2 routes: Chengdu, Chongqing
- Uni Air B7 (A321) · 2 routes: Shanghai, Xiamen*
- Xiamen Airlines MF (737-800, 737) · 2 routes: Fuzhou, Xiamen
- All Nippon Airways NH (767-300, 787-8) · 1 route: Tokyo
- China Eastern Airlines MU (A330-300) · 1 route: Shanghai
- Eastar Jet ZE (737-800) · 1 route: Seoul
- Japan Airlines Domestic JL (767) · 1 route: Tokyo
- Tway Airlines TW (737) · 1 route: Seoul
Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.
Getting there by ferry
Dadaocheng Wharf
Ferry terminal · 2.8 km from the centre
Zhong Xiao Pier
Ferry terminal · 3.4 km from the centre
Dajia Wharf
Ferry terminal · 3.6 km from the centre
Meiti Wharf
Ferry terminal · 4.3 km from the centre
Xikou Wharf
Ferry terminal · 4.5 km from the centre
Huajiang Pier
Ferry terminal · 5.1 km from the centre
碧潭渡船
Ferry route
BiTan Ferry-WanTan Ferry
Ferry route
WanTan Ferry-BiTan Ferry
Ferry route
大稻埕 - 淡水客船
Ferry route
Taiwan (Keelung) -Matsu Ferry
Ferry route · 新華航業公司
Taiwan (Keelung)-Matsu Ferry
Ferry route · 新華航業公司
Local transit
Taipei Metro
Metro · Taipei's MRT network; the EasyCard also works on buses. · Fares: EasyCard or iPASS · Airport: Taoyuan Airport MRT to Taipei Main Station
Trains & rail
Taiwan Railway Corporation
Rail operator
Taiwan High Speed Rail
National rail
Coaches & shuttles
Kuo-Kuang Motor Transport
Intercity coach
Private aviation
On-demand charter, jet cards and the semi-private scheduled carriers that serve this city.
Air Charter Service
Broker · Any aircraft via operators worldwide · Global charter broker with 30+ offices; private jets, group charters and cargo.
ExecuJet
FBO, charter, management · Managed fleet · FBO network and management across Europe, Africa, the Middle East and Asia-Pacific.
Flexjet
Fractional, jet card · Embraer Praetor, Bombardier Challenger & Global, Gulfstream · Fractional ownership and jet cards in North America and Europe.
Global Jet
Charter, management · Large-cabin & VIP airliners · Geneva-based operator known for large-cabin and VIP airliner charters.
Jet Aviation
Charter, management, FBO, MRO · Managed fleet worldwide · General Dynamics company: charter, completions and FBOs in Europe, the Middle East, Asia and the US.
Tours & experiences
Living Here
Getting about
- Taipei Metro runs five colour-coded lines plus the Circular line into New Taipei, and is clean, frequent and cheap; an EasyCard or iPASS works on the metro, buses, YouBike, the TRA trains and in convenience stores. No eating or drinking on the metro — it is enforced.
- Taoyuan airport is 35 to 50 minutes to Taipei Main Station on the Airport MRT; Songshan airport, on the brown line, handles domestic flights and a few to Tokyo, Seoul and Shanghai. High-speed rail reaches Kaohsiung in about two hours from Taipei Main or Nangang.
- YouBike stations are everywhere and the riverside paths are the best cycling in the city; scooters are the local vehicle and will not stop for pedestrians. A car is unnecessary.
- Taxis are yellow, metered and cheap; Uber operates. Buses are extensive and the EasyCard is tapped both on and off.
Health
- Dial 119 for ambulance and fire, 110 for police. National Taiwan University Hospital, Taipei Veterans General, Mackay Memorial and Chang Gung are the major hospitals, and most have international or English-speaking desks.
- Taiwan's National Health Insurance covers residents, including foreigners with a residence card after six months, and the care is fast and cheap by any standard. Visitors pay at the counter — a consultation costs little by Western standards — but should carry insurance for anything serious.
- Pharmacies are plentiful and convenience stores stock basic remedies; dengue is a summer risk in the south more than in Taipei, but repellent is sensible.
Work & study
- National Taiwan University is the country's top university; National Taiwan Normal University runs the best-known Mandarin programme for foreigners, and National Chengchi, Taipei Tech and Taipei Medical add to a large student population.
- Semiconductors and electronics dominate the economy — TSMC is in Hsinchu, an hour away, and ASUS and Acer are headquartered in the Taipei area — with finance, government and services in the city itself. Salaries are modest for the region.
- The Employment Gold Card is the easy visa for professionals; the residence card is the first errand. English is common in offices and Mandarin is expected outside them; Taiwanese Hokkien is widely spoken among older people.
Money & manners
- New Taiwan dollars; cash is still common, cards work in larger shops and restaurants, and the EasyCard handles small purchases. No tipping, though restaurants add a 10% service charge. VAT of 5% is included, and tourists can reclaim it on larger purchases.
- Every receipt is a lottery ticket, drawn every two months. Stand on the right on escalators, leave the priority seats empty, keep quiet on the metro, and expect strangers to help before you ask.
- The plum rains are May and June, typhoon season runs July to October, and summer is hot and humid; winter is damp and grey at 10 to 18 degrees. October and November are the best months.