Calgary is Canada's energy capital, a young, rich, orderly city on the edge of the Rockies that has boomed and bust with the price of oil for a century. It is more interesting than its reputation, and knows it.
The North-West Mounted Police built Fort Calgary where the Bow and Elbow rivers meet in 1875, on Blackfoot land, and the Canadian Pacific Railway arrived in 1883 and decided where the town would be. Ranching came first — the Stampede, begun in 1912, is the ranching city celebrating itself — and then oil: Turner Valley in 1914, Leduc in 1947, and the head-office boom that followed made Calgary the corporate capital of the Canadian energy industry, whatever Edmonton thinks. The 1988 Winter Olympics gave it a saddle-shaped arena, a ski jump and a sense of arrival. It has grown fast and repeatedly, passing a million people around 2006 and heading past 1.5 million now, with each oil boom drawing a wave from Atlantic Canada and then from everywhere else, and each bust leaving empty towers and a debate about diversifying.
The rivers organise it. Downtown sits in the angle of the Bow and Elbow: a grid of glass towers, the Calgary Tower, the Stephen Avenue pedestrian mall and the +15 skywalk that links the buildings above the winter street. The Beltline, just south, is the dense apartment-and-bar district, and 17th Avenue is its main street. Kensington, across the Bow to the north-west, is the walkable village; Inglewood, east along the river, has the oldest commercial street and the vintage-and-brewery quarter. Beyond the inner city the map is suburbs — vast, planned, low-density, with quadrant addresses (NW, NE, SW, SE) that are the only way to find anything — laid out to the ring road and the foothills. The Rockies stand along the western horizon on any clear day, and Banff is roughly 90 minutes up the Trans-Canada.
The Stampede in July is ten days of rodeo, chuckwagon races, pancake breakfasts and the whole city in a cowboy hat, bankers included; it is corny, enormous and taken seriously. The Flames and the Saddledome — a new arena is under construction next door — are the winter passion, and the Stampeders play CFL football at McMahon Stadium. The cultural scene has grown with the money: the Glenbow museum after a long rebuild, Studio Bell's national music centre, a theatre district around Arts Commons and a summer folk festival on Prince's Island. The food is better than outsiders expect — Alberta beef, certainly, but also large Vietnamese, Filipino, Chinese and Punjabi communities in the north-east and a restaurant row along 17th Avenue. It is an outdoor city: river pathways, skiing an hour away, and a chinook wind that can lift the temperature by 20 degrees in an afternoon.
The hard parts are the economy's dependence on oil and gas, which sets the mood and the office vacancy rate, and the winter — long, dry, bright and cold, with January snaps below minus 30 and chinooks that give and take back. Transit is a two-line LRT and buses, good for the core and the university and inadequate for most of the sprawl, so a car is standard. Provincial politics are conservative and the city keeps up a running quarrel with Ottawa about pipelines. Housing was a bargain until recently; a wave of arrivals from Ontario and British Columbia has pushed prices up sharply, though it remains far cheaper than Vancouver or Toronto. What it offers is a clean, safe, sunny, well-run city with high wages, no provincial sales tax, the Rockies within reach and the plainest, friendliest big-city manners in Canada.
The towers, Stephen Avenue's restaurants and the +15 walkways, then Eau Claire and Prince's Island Park on the Bow, with the Peace Bridge across to the north bank.
Apartment blocks and the city's densest run of restaurants and bars along 17th — the 'Red Mile' when the Flames are in the playoffs. Where Calgary goes out.
Across the Bow: cafés, bookshops and pubs on 10th Street and Kensington Road, a ten-minute walk from downtown and the closest thing to a village.
9th Avenue SE is the oldest commercial street — vintage shops, breweries, music rooms, the bird sanctuary on the river — with Ramsay's workshops and studios up the hill.
4th Street SW's restaurants along the Elbow River, Lindsay Park and the old Catholic mission; old money in the houses, young professionals in the flats.
Bridgeland's Italian-turned-brunch village on the north bank, and the East Village's new towers, Studio Bell and the Central Library, the building the city is proudest of.
Marlborough, Forest Lawn and the airport-side suburbs: the international city — Vietnamese, Filipino, Punjabi, Chinese — and the best cheap eating in Alberta along 17th Avenue SE.
555 Saddledome Rise SE, Calgary, AB T2G 2W1
7305 Crowchild Trail SW, Calgary, Alberta
2191 Douglasbank Crescent SE, Calgary, AB T2Z 2J4
1 Heritage Pointe Dr, Heritage Pointe, AB T1S 4H1
1410 Olympic Way SE, Calgary, AB T2G 2W1
110 6 Ave SE, Calgary, AB T2G 0G2
Restaurant — 736 10 Ave SW, Calgary, AB T2R 0A9
Restaurant
Restaurant
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Restaurant — 25 Prince's Island Park, SW, Calgary, AB T2P 0R1
breakfast restaurants · . CalgaryðŸ“222 5 Ave SWðŸ“825 1 Ave NEðŸ“2207 4 St SW EdmontonðŸ“10174 100A StðŸ“10240 124 St VancouverðŸ“1137 Marinaside Cres… · eatoeb.com
sports bars, sports bars, arcades, arcade games · gretabar.com
15 Royal Vista Place NW, Calgary, AB T3R 0P3 · madrose.pub
deserts, sweets · vendomecafe.com
bobsledding · 88 Canada Olympic Road SW, Calgary, AB T3B 5R5 · winsport.ca
lobster dumplings
calgary nightclubs, country music
2000 Airport Rd NE, Calgary, AB T2E 6W5 — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 15 airlines (WestJet, Air Canada, American Airlines, Delta Air Lines…) · direct flights to 59 destinations incl. Edmonton, London, Chicago, Dallas-Fort Worth, Las Vegas… (OpenFlights route data).
Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.
Cheadle, AB, CA — Indoor waiting area, but you walk out to the aircraft to board — bring an umbrella or a coat if the forecast is poor.
Chestermere, AB, CA
Further out, but often the cheapest way in — the airports the low-cost carriers use. Each links to its own town's guide for getting from there into the city.
AB, CA — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 27 airlines (Sky Express, TAM Brazilian Airlines, Oceanair, American Airlines…) · direct flights to 49 destinations incl. Buenos Aires, Sao Paulo, Curitiba, Brasilia, Campinas… (OpenFlights route data).
✈ Feeder airport · 47 km from Calgary · Sky Express, TAM Brazilian Airlines, Oceanair · Getting around Rio de Janeiro →
Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.
Ferry terminal · 8.6 km from the centre · Heritage Park
CTrain, bus · CTrain light rail and buses; the downtown CTrain zone is free. · Fares: My Fare app or ticket · Airport: Route 300 BRT from the airport to downtown
Public transit · Schedules & GTFS data
Public transit · Schedules & GTFS data
National rail
Calgary airport to Banff via Canmore, hourly, about two hours. · Banff, Alberta guide →
Calgary airport and downtown hotels to Banff, continuing to Lake Louise. · Banff, Alberta guide →
Free Bus Transportation from Calgary and Canmore to Sunshine Village with the purchase of a lift ticket. (child ticket excluded) · Banff, Alberta guide →
Calgary airport to Canmore, about 90 minutes. · Canmore, Alberta guide →
Several daily departures via Red Deer. · Edmonton, Alberta guide →
Premium coach with wide seats and wifi, about three and a half hours. · Edmonton, Alberta guide →
Calgary airport to Lake Louise via Banff, about three hours. · Lake Louise, Alberta guide →
Coach / shuttle operator
On-demand charter, jet cards and the semi-private scheduled carriers that serve this city.
Fractional · Praetor 500, Citation CJ3+, Legacy 450 · Canada's fractional-ownership operator, based in Calgary.
Charter, management · Light to large-cabin · Toronto-based charter and aircraft management.
Charter · Learjet, Challenger · Vancouver-based charter operator.
Charter, management, FBO · Managed fleet, Challenger, Global · Canada's largest business-aviation company: charter, management and FBOs in Toronto, Montréal, Calgary and Vancouver.
Broker · Any aircraft via operators worldwide · Global charter broker with 30+ offices; private jets, group charters and cargo.
Walking Tour