Rio de Janeiro
The city that lost the capital and kept the crown
Rio de Janeiro is Brazil's second city and its first idea of itself: beaches, samba, Carnival and a landscape of granite and forest that no other big city can match. It lost the capital to Brasília in 1960 and has been living gloriously and precariously off its beauty ever since.
The Portuguese founded São Sebastião do Rio de Janeiro in 1565 on a bay they had mistaken for a river, and the city grew on sugar and then on the gold of Minas Gerais, shipped out through its port. It was the capital of colonial Brazil from 1763, of the whole Portuguese empire when the royal court fled Napoleon in 1808, of the independent empire from 1822 and of the republic from 1889. It was also the largest slave port in the Americas, which shaped everything from its music to its hillsides. The belle-époque city of Avenida Central and the Theatro Municipal was the Paris of South America; Copacabana and Ipanema took over as its image in the 20th century, with bossa nova as the soundtrack. Brasília took the capital in 1960, the dictatorship ran from 1964 to 1985, and the 2014 World Cup and 2016 Olympics left new transit lines and a great deal of debt.
The geography does the planning. The Zona Sul — Copacabana, Ipanema, Leblon, Botafogo, Flamengo — is the wealthy, beachfront, tourist south, wedged between the Atlantic, the lagoon and the granite of Sugarloaf and Corcovado, with Christ the Redeemer on top. Centro, on the bay, is the old commercial and colonial city, busy on weekdays and empty on Sundays; Lapa and Santa Teresa beside it are the nightlife and the bohemian hill. The Zona Norte, beyond the Tijuca forest, is the vast working-class north with the Maracanã and most of the population; Barra da Tijuca, west along the coast, is the car-dependent, gated, American-style new city. The favelas — several hundred of them, from Rocinha and Vidigal above the Zona Sul to the complexes of the north — sit on the hillsides between all of these, part of the city and not apart from it.
Beach life is the culture: the numbered lifeguard posts that sort the crowds by tribe, footvolley, the coconut and the caipirinha at the kiosk, and the evening walk along the Copacabana pavement. Carnival in February or March is the biggest party on earth — the samba-school parades in the Sambadrome, and the hundreds of street blocos that are how cariocas actually celebrate. Samba is in Lapa and at the Pedra do Sal on Monday nights, bossa nova is in Ipanema's bars, and funk comes down from the favelas. Football is Flamengo, Fluminense, Vasco and Botafogo, and the Maracanã on a derby day is one of the sights of the world. The food is feijoada on Saturdays, botecos with cold chopp and pastéis, churrascarias, and açaí and tapioca at the beach; the restaurants of Leblon and Botafogo are serious. The city is warm, physical and unhurried about everything except football.
The hard parts are safety and inequality, and they cannot be waved away: armed robbery, phone-snatching and the occasional shoot-out between police and traffickers are real, and where you are and when matters more here than in most cities. Take the standard advice seriously — leave the watch at home, use an app rather than hailing a taxi at night, and stay off empty beaches after dark. The summer is hot and humid with a real risk of flooding, and the city's finances and politics have been chaotic for a decade; public transport is patchy and the beach hides a lot of poverty. What it offers is the most beautiful setting of any city on earth, a culture of extraordinary warmth and invention, a cost of living that is low in hard currency, and a way of life — the beach at seven in the morning, the boteco at seven at night — that nowhere else has managed to copy.
Where People Live
Copacabana & Leme
The four-kilometre beach, the black-and-white wave pavement, the Copacabana Palace and the kiosks; older residents, tourists and the New Year's Eve crowd. Dense and a little faded, in a good way.
Ipanema & Leblon
The fashionable beach around Posto 9, the Sunday Hippie Fair on Praça General Osório, bossa nova's birthplace at the Vinicius bar, and Leblon — the most expensive address in Brazil.
Botafogo, Flamengo & Urca
The bayside: the Sugarloaf cable car from Urca, the Flamengo park along the water, and Botafogo's bars, cinemas and restaurants, where younger cariocas actually live.
Centro & the Port
The colonial churches, the Confeitaria Colombo, the Theatro Municipal, and the revived waterfront with the Museu do Amanhã and the Boulevard Olímpico; the Pedra do Sal samba on Monday nights.
Lapa & Santa Teresa
The aqueduct arches and the samba halls of Lapa, then the tram up to Santa Teresa's hilltop cafés, artists' studios and the Escadaria Selarón.
Jardim Botânico, Gávea & the Lagoa
The botanical garden, the running path around the lagoon, the Jockey Club and PUC-Rio's campus. Leafy, wealthy and quiet, with the mountain right behind.
Barra da Tijuca & Recreio
An 18-kilometre beach, the malls and condominiums, the Olympic Park; car country, with surfers at Prainha and Grumari at the far end.
Tijuca, Maracanã & the Zona Norte
The stadium, the Quinta da Boa Vista park, the samba schools' rehearsal halls and the north-eastern market at the Feira de São Cristóvão; where most of the city lives.
Restaurants & places to go
Airports
Antonio Carlos Jobim International Airport (GIG)
AB, CA — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 27 airlines (Sky Express, TAM Brazilian Airlines, Oceanair, American Airlines…) · direct flights to 49 destinations incl. Buenos Aires, Sao Paulo, Curitiba, Brasilia, Campinas… (OpenFlights route data).
✈ Serves Calgary (47 km) — the low-cost way in
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 27 airlines, 49 direct destinations
- Sky Express G3 (737-800, 737-700) · 26 routes: Aracaju, Belem, Belo Horizonte, Brasilia, Buenos Aires, Campinas, Campo Grande, Cuiaba, Curitiba, Florianopolis, Fortaleza, Foz Do Iguacu, Goiania, Joao Pessoa, Maceio, Manaus, Natal, Navegantes, Porto Alegre, Recife, Salvador, Santo Domingo, Sao Luis, Sao Paulo, Sao Paulo, Vitoria
- TAM Brazilian Airlines JJ (A320, 767-300, A319, A321, 747-400) · 25 routes: Belem, Belo Horizonte, Brasilia, Buenos Aires, Campinas, Curitiba, Dallas-Fort Worth, Florianopolis, Fortaleza, Foz Do Iguacu, Frankfurt*, Joao Pessoa, Maceio, Manaus, Miami, Natal, New York, Porto Alegre, Recife, Salvador, Santiago*, Sao Luis, Sao Paulo, Sao Paulo, Vitoria
- Oceanair O6 (318, A320) · 8 routes: Brasilia, Florianopolis, Fortaleza, Joao Pessoa, Porto Alegre, Recife, Salvador, Sao Paulo
- American Airlines AA (767-300, 767) · 4 routes: Charlotte, Dallas-Fort Worth, Miami, New York
- US Airways US (767-300, 762) · 4 routes: Charlotte, Dallas-Fort Worth, Miami, New York
- Aerolineas Argentinas AR (737) · 2 routes: Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires
- Air France AF (A330-200, 737-700, 777-300ER) · 2 routes: Curitiba*, Paris
- Avianca - Aerovias Nacionales de Colombia AV (A319, A320) · 2 routes: Bogota, Lima*
- Delta Air Lines DL (737-800, 767-400) · 2 routes: Atlanta, Santo Domingo*
- Emirates EK (777-300ER) · 2 routes: Buenos Aires, Dubai
- KLM Royal Dutch Airlines KL (737, 777) · 2 routes: Amsterdam, Curitiba*
- LAN Airlines LA (A320, A319) · 2 routes: Buenos Aires*, Santiago
- TAP Portugal TP (A330-200, A340-300) · 2 routes: Lisbon, Porto
- United Airlines UA (777) · 2 routes: Houston, Sao Paulo
- Alitalia AZ (330) · 1 route: Rome
- Azul AD (Embraer 195, Embraer 190) · 1 route: Campinas
- BQB Lineas Aereas 5Q (A319, ATR 72) · 1 route: Montevideo
- British Airways BA (777) · 1 route: London
- Changan Airlines 2Z (ATR 72) · 1 route: Ribeirao Preto
- Copa Airlines CM (737-800) · 1 route: Panama City
- Ethiopian Airlines ET (787-8) · 1 route: Sao Paulo
- Grupo TACA TA (A320) · 1 route: Lima*
- Iberia Airlines IB (A330-300, 342, 345, A340-600) · 1 route: Madrid
- Korean Air KE (767-400) · 1 route: Atlanta*
- Lufthansa Cargo LH (747-400) · 1 route: Frankfurt
- TAAG Angola Airlines DT (777-300ER) · 1 route: Luanda
- TAM Mercosur PZ (A320) · 1 route: Buenos Aires
Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.
Santos Dumont Airport (SDU) 4.5 km to the centre
Rio de Janeiro, RJ, BR — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 6 airlines (Azul, TAM Brazilian Airlines, Sky Express, FlyLal…) · direct flights to 18 destinations incl. Sao Paulo, Belo Horizonte, Brasilia, Vitoria, Macaé… (OpenFlights route data).
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 6 airlines, 18 direct destinations
- Azul AD (Embraer 190, Embraer 195, ATR 72, AT4) · 12 routes: Belo Horizonte, Campinas, Campos, Curitiba, Goiania, Macaé, Porto Alegre, Porto Seguro, Sao Jose Dos Campos, Sao Paulo, Sao Paulo, Vitoria
- TAM Brazilian Airlines JJ (A319) · 6 routes: Aracaju, Belo Horizonte, Brasilia, Ilheus, Sao Paulo, Vitoria
- Sky Express G3 (737-800, 737-700) · 5 routes: Belo Horizonte, Brasilia, Sao Paulo, Sao Paulo, Vitoria
- FlyLal TE (L4T) · 3 routes: Cabo Frio, Macaé, Sao Jose Dos Campos
- Oceanair O6 (A319, 318) · 3 routes: Brasilia, Salvador, Sao Paulo
- Marusya Airways Y8 (EM2) · 1 route: Ribeirao Preto
Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.
Campo Délio Jardim de Mattos Airport 19 km to the centre
Rio de Janeiro, RJ, BR — Indoor waiting areas, but some gates board by bus or on foot across the apron — plan for the weather on the day.
Jacarepaguá - Roberto Marinho Airport (RRJ) 19 km to the centre
Rio de Janeiro, RJ, BR — Indoor waiting areas, but some gates board by bus or on foot across the apron — plan for the weather on the day.
Maricá Airport (JMR) 39 km to the centre
Maricá, RJ, BR — Indoor waiting area, but you walk out to the aircraft to board — bring an umbrella or a coat if the forecast is poor.
Marambaia Airport 71 km to the centre
Rio De Janeiro, RJ, BR
Getting there by ferry
Estação Praça XV
Ferry terminal · 3.6 km from the centre · Barcas Rio
Praça XV
Ferry terminal · 3.7 km from the centre
Ilha Fiscal
Ferry terminal · 4.3 km from the centre · Marinha do Brasil
Praça Arariboia
Ferry terminal · 8.5 km from the centre
Estação Arariboia
Ferry terminal · 8.6 km from the centre · Barcas Rio
Charitas
Ferry terminal · 11 km from the centre · CCR Barcas
Espaço Cultural da Marinha-Ilha Fiscal
Ferry route · Marinha do Brasil
1º Distrito - CIAW
Ferry route · Marinha do Brasil
Praça XV - Praça Arariboia
Ferry route · Barcas Rio
Praça Arariboia - Praça XV
Ferry route · Barcas Rio
Praia da Bica - Praça XV
Ferry route · Ecotur Ilha
Praça XV - Charitas
Ferry route · Barcas Rio
Charitas - Praça XV
Ferry route · Barcas Rio
Praça XV - Cocotá
Ferry route · Barcas Rio
Local transit
City Transport Secretary of Rio de Janeiro
Public transit · Schedules & GTFS data
Trains & rail
Companhia Brasileira de Trens Urbanos
Rail operator
MetrôRio
Rail operator
MRS Logística
Rail operator
SuperVia
Rail operator
Private aviation
On-demand charter, jet cards and the semi-private scheduled carriers that serve this city.
Líder Aviação
Charter, management, FBO · Managed fleet · Brazil's largest business-aviation company.
Air Charter Service
Broker · Any aircraft via operators worldwide · Global charter broker with 30+ offices; private jets, group charters and cargo.
ExecuJet
FBO, charter, management · Managed fleet · FBO network and management across Europe, Africa, the Middle East and Asia-Pacific.
Flexjet
Fractional, jet card · Embraer Praetor, Bombardier Challenger & Global, Gulfstream · Fractional ownership and jet cards in North America and Europe.
Global Jet
Charter, management · Large-cabin & VIP airliners · Geneva-based operator known for large-cabin and VIP airliner charters.
Tours & experiences
1Segundo Tour
Sightseeing
Living Here
Getting about
- MetrôRio's three lines link the Zona Sul to Centro, Tijuca and Barra (line 4 to Jardim Oceânico); the VLT tram serves Centro and the port, and the buses go everywhere but are confusing. A RioCard or contactless bank card works on the Metro, which is the safest way to move.
- Use Uber or 99 rather than hailing on the street, especially at night; the yellow cabs are fine from a rank. Bike Itaú share and the beachfront cycle path make the Zona Sul rideable, and the beach road closes to cars on Sundays.
- Galeão international airport (GIG) is on Ilha do Governador, 45–90 minutes from the Zona Sul by taxi or the BRT-and-Metro combination; Santos Dumont (SDU), beside Centro, handles the São Paulo shuttle. Long-distance buses leave from the Novo Rio terminal.
- The city is hilly and hot: walk the beachfronts and Centro on weekdays, and take the cog train from Cosme Velho or a van up to Corcovado rather than the road on foot.
Health
- Dial 192 for an ambulance (SAMU), 190 for police and 193 for the fire brigade. Private hospitals — Copa D'Or, Samaritano, Copa Star — are good and expect insurance or payment; the public SUS system is free but crowded. Take travel insurance.
- Pharmacies (Drogaria Pacheco, Drogasil) are everywhere and open late, and many can handle basic care at the counter.
- Dengue is a real risk in summer, so use repellent, and the sun is fierce. The lifeguard flags mean what they say — the surf at Ipanema and Copacabana is stronger than it looks. Yellow fever vaccination is advised for travel beyond the city.
Work & study
- UFRJ, the largest federal university, has its main campus on the Ilha do Fundão; PUC-Rio in Gávea is the leading private university, and UERJ sits beside the Maracanã.
- Oil and gas (Petrobras is headquartered here and the offshore fields lie off the state's coast), media (TV Globo), tourism, finance, the port and a growing tech and creative sector; the federal government's departure in 1960 still shows.
- Foreigners need a work visa arranged through an employer; Portuguese is essential beyond the tourist economy, and the bureaucracy rewards patience and a local accountant.
Money & manners
- Brazilian reais; cards and the instant Pix payment system are universal, and even beach vendors take Pix — cash is for small change. Tip 10% in restaurants (the serviço is usually already on the bill); no tipping in taxis.
- Cariocas are warm, physical, late and informal: a kiss on each cheek, first names, and a plan that means 'around then'. Beachwear is for the beach and the pavement beside it, not for restaurants.
- Summer (December to March) is hot, humid and wet; winter (June to August) is mild and sunny and the best time to visit. Carnival and New Year on Copacabana are the peaks for prices and crowds.